Like much of South India, Kochi has had a long-lasting, silent love affair with bakeries. These small cake shops, nestled amid bustling streets and historic districts, have long been a part of daily life, where the aroma of freshly baked sponge blends with recollections of evening tea and childhood pleasures. South India's bakery culture is a reflection of its complex past, ranging from traditional regional baked goods to influences brought in by trade, travel, and colonial history. Particularly in Kochi, bakeries are more than just locations to purchase cakes; they are historical archives that preserve the tastes, legends, and customs that have been passed down through the ages.
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The world of baking seems to be growing ceaselessly, from the classic deep-fried vettu cake, literally translating to "cake with cuts", to the colourful, elaborate decorative cakes. Even while cake tastes and styles have changed significantly over time, you couldn't help but observe that one modest store in Kochi, named Kunju’s Jam Rolls, has quietly maintained its position and won people over for decades with something incredibly simple, its melt-in-your-mouth jam rolls.
What Makes Kunju’s Jam Rolls Unique?
Unwrapping the butter-paper packaging within the enticing box of jam rolls is like solving a riddle. A large, delectable roll of golden jam and sponge is contained in each box. These kinds of boxes travel both domestically and abroad, frequently using a ticket known as nostalgia. For those who grew up there, the jam roll, once known as Kanjirapally, remains a part of home. Kunju Bakery's history dates back to 1931. Kunju's Jam Rolls is carrying on the distinguished tradition of SAS Bakery, which was founded in Kanjirappally in the Kottayam district by K K Kunju Asan, a resident of Thrissur. At that period, Kunju Asan worked at the Bosotto bakery in Madras (now Chennai), where she studied the subtleties of cake baking from skilled British bakers.
The demand for cakes increased dramatically during the British expansion of plantations throughout Travancore in the 1930s. Kunju Asan opened a baking facility in Kanjirappally after seeing an opportunity. It's interesting to note that Travancore was well-known at the time for its luscious pineapples, which went on to become a key component of many of the bakery's creations. Particularly well-known for his skill in creating Swiss rolls, Kunju Asan's delicate, sweet jam rolls quickly gained popularity. According to what many have heard, cake enthusiasts of the time were quite excited by his extraordinary cakes with unusual and exotic flavours.
Rolling Forward A Legacy Of Jam Rolls
The legacy is in good hands now. After retiring from Bharat Petroleum, Kunju Asan's son, Dr Jayan, assumed leadership. He currently operates Kunju's Jam Rolls, which is situated in Kakkanad on the Seaport–Airport Road. Seeing a family custom being upheld with such pride and attention is comforting.
To the envy of other bakers, the original SAC Bakery in Kanjirappally is still going strong. Fresh pineapples and strawberries from nearby farms are the reason why the cakes continue to have a devoted following. Finding international classics like Swiss rolls, Bolo de coco, Hummingbird cakes, and lemon cream cakes at the store shocked many. The true secret to Kunju's Jam Rolls' long-term success is straightforward—providing Malayalis with foreign-style treats at reasonable costs while never sacrificing quality.
Eating A Kunju’ Jam Roll
The jam rolls are packaged in a narrow cardboard box as a single continuous roll. Only the piece that you want to eat can be sliced, and the rest can be put back in the box for subsequent use. The rolls are delicious when they are fresh. The jam filling provides sweetness, and the cake layer is spongy and moist. As is typical with high-sugar foodstuffs, the jam's sugar may eventually crystallise.
Throughout, the roll is kept in the refrigerator. It is chopped and lightly toasted in a pan with melted butter whenever a piece is required. The ideal roasting is quite light. As an alternative, the slice can be immediately consumed after being microwaved for a few seconds. Both techniques improve the roll's flavour and add to its enjoyment. The roll is still smooth and supple after two weeks of storage.
Address: Kunju's Jam Rolls Seaport - Airport Road, Kakkanad, Kochi, Kerala 682030
Timings: 9 AM - 9 PM
Price: INR 150 per order