The Legacy Of Trincas: From A Tearoom To Kolkata’s Cultural Icon

We walked into Trincas on a weekday evening without making a reservation. It was the beginning of the year and Kolkata’s weather got nippy post-sunset. When we got in, we realised it was a full house and the waiting period allowed us to get a closer look at the photographs that proudly graced the walls. Black and white blow-ups featuring legendary artists who performed at Trincas, the many celebrities who enjoyed a meal here, and old menu cards that made us squint in disbelief when we noticed the prices. 

At the center of the restaurant, was a stage, where a three-piece band was seated and their lead singer regales diners with her silk-like voice. Some diners even joined her in the chorus. The staff, many of whom have been here for decades, took notes attentively before they scurried to bring back some delicious-looking food to the tables. The food looked comforting and the portion sizes were generous and old-school.

My dad told me that Trinca’s was the most “happening” place in Kolkata when he was growing up and everybody wanted to be there. “Park Street is where all the eateries were, while some still exist others have shut shop. It’s good to see this one thrive,” he said. Just like him, many diners seemed to be familiar with the place. 

Video Credit: Bong Eats

According to Anand Puri, a third-generation owner of the restaurant, “Everyone true blue Calutta wallah has a heartstring attached to the place.” In his attempt to piece together the history of his restaurant, Anand started a blog called the Trincas Timeline Project. The idea behind this Community-Based Memory Project was to collect people’s experiences of Trincas and build stories around them. With this aim, he reached out to people across the globe, who once lived in Calcutta and had memories, pictures, and anecdotes about Trincas. 

What he found was fascinating. From finding the man who designed the early menu cards, to someone who recognised a door handle and said that their grandfather was the one who made it, to a nurse from Thun, Switzerland, who reached out to him about a patient of hers, whose aunt and uncle once owned a tea room in Calcutta - by the name Trinca’s. The messages and stories 
poured in.

The Early Days 

A Swiss couple, Cinzio and Lilly Trinca, opened Trinca’s Tea Room and Confectionery in 1939 and ran it till 1959. According to Anand’s blog, “Quinto Cinzio Trinca was born in 1896 in Poschiavo, Switzerland. He ventured out to India sometime in the 1920s. In 1927 he joined another compatriot Joseph Flury and his wife Freida to start a Swiss Confectionery and Tea Room on Park Street in British Calcutta. 

Over the years, the business thrived, had a loyal clientele, and was even mentioned in the foreign press. The Trinca-Flury partnership broke up in 1939 due to unknown reasons and Cinzio Trinca and his wife Lilly moved Trinca’s Tea Room and Confectionery diagonally across the street to its current location at 17 Park Street.”

Trincas began its journey as a modest tearoom, offering a serene space for the city’s elite to enjoy quiet conversations over tea and light snacks. It was a time when Park Street was establishing itself as Kolkata’s premier entertainment and dining district, and Trincas was perfectly positioned to cater to the city’s burgeoning cosmopolitan crowd. 

“Before the partition, there were elite, white linen and silverware, kind of tearooms. Trinca’s was one of them. In 1959, post the partition, while many Europeans were on their way out, quite a few remained in Calcutta. It was an international urban, cultural hub,” Anand tells us. 

Transformation Into A Restaurant

20 years later in 1959, Trinca sold his business to Omi Puri and Ellis Joshua. In 1959, the two young hospitality professionals quit their jobs at the Oberoi Hotel in Calcutta and took ownership of the establishment. During this time Trincas underwent a significant transformation. 

As per the blog, air conditioning was added in 1960. The elegant tables of the tearoom were replaced with comfortable furniture. The tearoom expanded into a full-fledged restaurant, complete with an innovative menu that combined Continental, Chinese, and Indian dishes. This diversification in cuisine mirrored Kolkata’s eclectic palate, which was shaped by its colonial history and multicultural influences. It became the place where friends met up for a cup of coffee and some chatter, and won prizes in raffles, with a live band adding to the festivities.

The Birth Of The Live Music Culture

“Most people who have been to Trinca’s in the 60s and 70s, will remember what was known as Trincas’ famous “Jam Sessions”. These were held in the afternoons, with 15-minute slots coveted by musicians from across the country,” says Anand. 

Trincas earned legendary status in the 1960s and 1970s by introducing live music to its patrons. It became the cradle of Kolkata’s vibrant music scene, hosting performances by some of India’s most celebrated artists, including Usha Uthup, who began her career here. The restaurant’s stage was a magnet for aspiring musicians, offering a platform to experiment and connect with an appreciative audience.

The live music culture at Trincas also reflected the spirit of the times. The 60s and 70s were marked by social change and a youthful embrace of new ideas, and Trincas became a space where these shifts were celebrated through music and camaraderie. “There were variety shows that restaurants and nightclubs hosted at the time. Apart from music, it included magicians and even an act where a damsel in distress was rescued from a Gorilla. It was one of these things that you think will happen only in a movie but this was what was going on back in the day,” Anand explains. 

“The live shows were the flavour of the times. If you were going out, you wanted a grand evening out. You wanted to be able to have a dance. You wanted to be able to listen to live music before perhaps going out to the theatre. Trincas adapted to the times and then it became the trendsetter too. It was the go-to place with lines at the door," he adds.

A Culinary Journey Through Decades

Trincas’ menu has always been a reflection of Kolkata’s evolving tastes. From its signature sizzlers to comforting Chinese dishes and Indian delicacies, the restaurant has successfully balanced tradition with innovation. The sizzlers, in particular, became synonymous with Trincas, their smoky aroma wafting through the restaurant and drawing diners in. Paired with live music, these dishes created an experience that was as much about the atmosphere as it was about flavour. 

“The Lobster Thermidor is one dish that can be found on Trincas' 1960 menu priced at INR 5. It can today also be found on Trincas' Instagram page where it has thousands of likes and shares. The 1960 menu from Trincas has many of the same Continental and Indian dishes that can be found at the restaurant today, albeit with a jump in a few decimal places to keep up with the times,” Anand shares.

The 60s menu also had pasta and later in the 80s, the Ming Room which was a part of the main hall at Trincas had an elaborate Chinese menu. “Trinca sort of pioneered Sichuan-influenced food, in India. There were only two other places in the country doing it at that time and Trincas was the only one that wasn't inside a five-star hotel, to do it. This also kind of democratised Sichuan cuisine. Kolkata had Hakka and Cantonese cuisines which were popular already and this together sped up the evolution of Calcutta Chinese.”

Cultural And Historical Significance

Trincas is more than just a restaurant; it is a repository of memories and stories. It has been a witness to Kolkata’s political and cultural shifts, hosting intellectual debates, romantic rendezvous, and family celebrations. Its walls echo with the laughter, music, and conversations of decades past, making it a living museum of the city’s heritage.

During its peak, Trincas became a meeting point for artists, writers, and thinkers, embodying Kolkata’s reputation as the cultural capital of India. Its tables have seen countless ideas take shape, from literary discussions to political movements.

Despite the rise of modern cafes and international dining chains, Trincas has retained its charm and relevance. Its ability to adapt while staying true to its roots has been key to its enduring popularity. The restaurant has embraced contemporary trends, introducing modern elements to its menu and decor, while preserving the nostalgic essence that makes it unique.

The live music tradition, which once defined the restaurant, has seen a revival, ensuring that the legacy of Trincas lives on. As it continues to evolve with the times, Trincas remains a cherished part of the city’s identity, a place where the past and present coexist harmoniously. 

"When we revamped Trincas, I started dialing back slowly to what the old look and the feel of the place was, taking inspiration from the past and preserving the vibe that it always had. This perhaps had fallen out of vogue in the 80s but was starting to feel very much in vogue again. I kept it current, so, while we do retro music, we'd also throw in some Bruno Mars. While the idea of live music with your dinner is an old thing, we are doing it with new music. We're presenting it in a way that it is comfortable and easy for everyone to appreciate,” Anand says, just as the singer announced that an Ed Sheeran song was coming up next. 

“In 2021, we added Jazz. Jazz had disappeared from the city. We also have LGBTQ karaoke every single week. It's got its own flavour. Today we allow people to dress casually when they come for their meals, and bring kids and families to the restaurant. Trincas has always changed with the times. Park Street is the heart of Kolkata and Trincas is at the centre of it. While some things have changed, the soul of the place remains the same.”