An important port city in the international spice trade from the late 1400s, Kochi has also been home to a small population of Jews and Anglo-Indians. The cuisine of the region is an amalgamation of these influences, including those of the Portuguese, Dutch and English colonisers. More recently, the city has been prized for its food culture, which includes everything from fish fry to pazhampori. Here are some places to eat local food at if you’re in Kochi:
Nettoor Toddy Shop
A visit to a toddy shop is a must for when you’re visiting Kochi. Overlooking an idyllic backwater, Nettoor Toddy Shop offers beautiful views. Try the beef liver fry or crab masala, accompanied by a plate of kappa (tapioca). Toddy shops were earlier known for being male spaces, but the culture has evolved and places like Nettoor are family-friendly.
Location: Near Nettor Palli, Nettor Palli, Nettoor, Maradu, Ernakulam.
Timings: Daily, 8am-8pm.
Cost for two: ₹400
Ojeen
Ojeen is an unassuming cafe that sells traditional Malabari Mappila snacks. The erachi pathiri (a kind of meat patty), mutta maala (a dessert made entirely of eggs) and unnakaya (plantain fritters) are all worth trying. Ojeen’s kabsa, an Arabic dish made with meat and rice, is also well-known.
Location: Penta Menaka Shopping Complex, D-17, Shanmugham Road, Menaka, Marine Drive, Kochi.
Timings: Daily, 9am-10pm.
Cost for two: ₹500
Sri Muruga Cafe
Sri Muruga Cafe is known for bringing together two popular Malayali dishes: beef fry and pazhampori (banana fritters). The salty, spicy meat makes a pleasant accompaniment to the sweet fritters, and is a favourite with many people. The story goes that some truck drivers arrived at the cafe one evening and ordered a plate of beef and a portion of pazhampori, and it became a classic.
Location: Mini Bypass Tripunithura Rd, Poonithura, Thrippunithura, Kochi.
Timings: Daily, 5am-10pm.
Cost for two: ₹200
Quality Bakers
Known for the breudher (a Dutch cake), Quality Bakers was established by C. V. Chandran who recommended eating the cake/bread with mutton kurma. Breudher can also be found in Dutch colonies around the world, like Sri Lanka and Singapore, but bakeries in Kochi have made it their own by adding spices and ghee.
Location: Pattalam Road, Fort Kochi, Kochi.
Timings: Daily, 7am-9.30pm.
Cost for two: ₹200
Fort House Restaurant
A beautiful setting defines Fort House Restaurant, which serves classics like appam and stew, and prawn mango curry. The seafood here is prepared in Syrian Christian style and is quite the treat when combined with the view. The restaurant is part of the Fort House Hotel, which is well known and quite a favourite with tourists.
Location: Pattalam Road, Fort Kochi, Kochi.
Timings: Daily, 1-10pm.
Cost for two: ₹1,000
