Before the British took over Bengal, Bengal had many rulers, and some of their legacies remain alive through the cuisine they brought. Take Murshidabad, for instance; in addition to being the city that gave us Arijit Singh, Murshidabad is a city replete with history and heritage. The ancient city was founded by Nawab Murshid Quli Khan, who once happened to be the Prime Minister of Bengal Subah and was later promoted to the rank of Nawab.
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By the eighteenth century, the Mughal empire was losing its grip over the subcontinent. The rivalry of Murshid Quli Khan and Prince Azim-ush-Shan, the viceroy of Bengal, became quite a scandal, so when the status of the Mughal empire further deteriorated in the country, the Mughal King Farrukhsiyar promoted Khan as the Nawab to prevent things from getting worse. Nawab Murshid was now in charge of creating a Princely estate that would be part of the Mughal rule.
One of the first things the Murshid Quli Khan did was shift the capital of Bengal from Dhaka to this new city that he named after himself, Murshidabad. Situated by the banks of the Bhagirathi, Murshidabad thrived under the rule of Nawabs, even becoming one of the wealthiest Mughal provinces during the latter half of the 18th century.
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Murshidabad is also known for the various vegetarian snacks it has owing to the Jain and Rajasthani influences. One such snack is the ‘gurji’. Gurji has a similar appearance to a gujiya. The difference is in the art of making it and the filling that is used in the gurji. Let’s dig into the little details of this particular sweet from the royal history of Murshidabad.
History & Origin Of Gurji
Needless to say, the cuisine of Murshidabad was heavily influenced by the Mughal culinary habits, but the chefs were deeply conscious of the local produce and preferences as well. So, they adapted accordingly. Instead of beef and lamb, much emphasis was given to fish.
It was difficult to imagine a feast without fish in Bengal; therefore, the Nawabs were more than happy to indulge in the local and juicy fish produce. And obviously, at the heart of it was also the ample vegetarian dishes and snacks you could taste. One of them is called ‘gurji’. It resembles a standard Marwari gujiya in both appearance and freshness. While the classic gujiya might contain a filling of khoya (reduced milk solids), the Sheherwali version is distinctively filled with a blend of cucumber and hung curd, and flavoured with rich garam masalas. Enjoying this treat with a side of coriander (dhania) chutney and a squeeze of lime is a match made in heaven.
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The Sheherwalis, a Jain merchant clan who came from Rajasthan to Bengal centuries ago, produced a fusion cuisine that merges Rajasthani customs, Bengali food, and Nawabi splendour, all under stringent Jain vegetarian restrictions (no root vegetables, onions, or garlic).
The Art Of Making Gurjis
The filling is often made richer with a copious use of dry fruits, nuts, saffron, and sometimes rose water, symbolising the Nawabi influence and the community's affluence. The outer cover is made out of maida (plain flour) or a blend of wheat and semolina, and the trick is to ensure the dough is formed correctly so that the filling remains sealed and does not let oil leak in while deep-frying. The outcome is an exterior that is crispy and flaky. Gurji, like many Sheherwali sweets, is fundamental to their meals, which commonly begin and end with a sweet dish. During holidays like Holi, they are particularly well-liked.
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It is uncommon to get authentic Sheherwali gurji with its distinctive cucumber-curd or rich dry-fruit filling in regular restaurants or mass-market confectionery stores. It is largely a cuisine made within Sheherwali homes for family feasts and festivals, or prepared by specialised cooks for community occasions. If you really want to taste gurji or a Sheherwali thali in general, take a trip to Azimganj, Murshidabad, where Bari Kothi stands tall in all its splendour. They have a restaurant that offers a Sheherwali thali with all the delicacies included in it.