THE ascent of the garden nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus) to its current revered status has been a gradual journey that spans continents and centuries. Over time, this versatile ingredient has been regarded as a flower, an herb, a vegetable, and even a fruit. Indigenous to the tropical or subtropical montane forests of the Andes mountains in South America, the nasturtium has a long-standing history, cherished by the ancient Incas of Peru for both its culinary and medicinal properties. In the Peruvian culture, wildcrafted nasturtiums were treasured as a salad vegetable and herbal remedy, brewed into teas to combat respiratory infections or used as a poultice for cuts and burns.
It was during the 16th century that the nasturtium began its European expedition, accompanying Spanish conquistadors who imported it alongside other notable New World treasures such as potatoes and tomatoes. Spanish botanist Nicolás Monardes provided the first documented account of the nasturtium in 1565, while English botanist John Gerard noted its arrival in England in 1597. British growers referred to it as "Indian Cress" due to its origins in the Americas, which were then known as the Indies. The name "nasturtium," derived from the Latin word for "nose-twister," was bestowed upon it by Renaissance botanists, inspired by its peppery taste and an aromatic scent reminiscent of watercress.
The initial species of nasturtium to reach Europe, known as Tropaeolum minus, featured small yellow flowers and is now considered rare. However, it was the introduction of the more vigorous Tropaeolum majus during the 17th century that truly captured the admiration of gardeners. With its striking dark orange flowers, large rounded leaves, and climbing nature, this variety gained particular popularity as an ornamental plant, drawing attention and praise after its inclusion in the flower beds of King Louis XIV at the illustrious Palace of Versailles. The nasturtium was hence celebrated not only for its culinary uses but also as a living masterpiece of artistry.
The 17th-century English herbal writers developed an uncommon fondness for nasturtiums. Apart from Monardes, John Parkinson, in his work, Paradisi in Sole (1629), referred to the plant as "larkes heeles", highlighting its aesthetic beauty and sweet allure without attributing any medicinal properties. In Acetaria (1699), the first dedicated book on salads, John Evelyn recommended incorporating shredded nasturtium flowers into greens to provide a sharp and spicy note. He also suggested pickling nasturtium buds in vinegar for similar culinary applications.
The introduction of nasturtiums to North America accompanied the arrival of European immigrants as early as 1759. Thomas Jefferson, a notable figure in American history, recorded his planting of nasturtiums in 1774, alongside celery, radicchio and watercress. Jefferson was extremely fond of the young, peppery leaves and flowers in salads, and he also experimented with pickling the seeds and buds as a flavourful alternative to capers. By 1782, nasturtiums had secured a place in Jefferson's lists of ornamental plants, and in 1803, his gardening mentor Bernard McMahon became the first to sell nasturtium seeds in the United States for their edibility.
In addition to their culinary uses, nasturtiums possessed significant medicinal value. When black pepper was scarce and expensive during World War II, the pungent nasturtium seeds were pounded into powder form and used as a substitute. Their high vitamin C content, along with iron and manganese, made them a valuable deterrent against scurvy. Furthermore, nasturtiums exhibited antifungal, antiseptic, and antibiotic properties, rendering them useful in traditional medicine for various purposes. The plant's leaves and flowers, when infused or decocted, proved effective in promoting liver and kidney health, acting as a diuretic, treating respiratory infections, and addressing skin problems.
Throughout history, nasturtium's popularity extended beyond its culinary and medicinal roles. Victorian-era enthusiasts cherished nasturtiums not only for their ability to prevent scurvy but also for their aesthetic appeal, frequently incorporating them into bouquets and table arrangements. With its edible leaves, flowers, and even flower buds, the nasturtium offered a flavour profile reminiscent of mustard, radish, and watercress, with the flowers milder in taste compared to the leaves. Additionally, the buds and seed pods could be pickled as a substitute for capers, further expanding the range of gastronomic possibilities.
As time progressed, variations in nasturtium cultivars emerged. The original single-flowered variety with five petals now shares the stage with double and semi-double blooms. The first semi-double variety, discovered outside a Mexican convent in the 1920s, gained fame when seed distributor John Bodger introduced it to the American public as 'Golden Gleam.' The Great Depression fueled its popularity, with seeds costing just five cents each. Today, the 'Gleam' family of nasturtiums continues to be cultivated and admired at the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum in Boston, Massachusetts.
The journey of the garden nasturtium has been a testament to its adaptability, from its humble beginnings as a cherished botanical in South America to its global prominence as an esteemed ingredient in diverse cuisines. Whether celebrated for its culinary delights or its medicinal properties, the multifaceted nasturtium continues to captivate the senses and infuse vibrant flavours into the world of culinary delights.
