Share
It is frequently mentioned, in passing, that Bengalis live to eat, whereas others eat to survive. All Bengali ceremonies and festivals culminate in one thing—feasting on a lavish spread of various dishes featuring expertly prepared fish and meat. The people of Bengal believe, as many would say, it’s one’s choice in life on what you want to eat during a certain period of time. It’s your freedom, and no one will punish you for it, not even the forces you pray to. Then again, there’s this stereotype that surrounds the Bengali community across the globe that they cannot survive without meat. Yet, surprisingly, the number of recipes that have existed longer than survival is all vegetarian and maybe even the idea of a bowl of comfort food has just been lentils, rice and potatoes. Bengalis undoubtedly enjoy eating, but they especially enjoy food that has been thoughtfully, creatively, and uniquely prepared. Finding new flavours, reimagining old ones, and appreciating the craft of cooking itself all have an unsaid joy. Kolkata has always welcomed cuisine from all over the world with open arms and a curious palate. A plate in Kolkata has always been impressive, from modest street corners to fine dining restaurants.
Image Credit: Avartana, ITC Royal Bengal, Kolkata
Beneath all of this passion for food, however, one thing never changes. The Bengali mentality of frugal living. No matter how extravagant the desire, a silent calculation about what to eat, where to dine, and how much to spend is constantly at work. Knowing that a filling, substantial meal doesn't always require a five-star rating makes one feel proud. When the same happiness can be obtained for half the price at a modest home-cooked spread, a simple restaurant in Chinatown, or a plate of comfort food at Dacres Lane, why spend money on five-star hotels? This is where the shift takes place. After all, Bengalis appreciate creative thinking, particularly in the culinary arts. Therefore, even the most parsimonious among them nod in agreement and say, "Let's give it a try," when dining becomes an art form. Avartana at ITC Royal Bengal appeals to that sentiment beautifully. Kolkata has long been deprived of excellent dining experiences devoted to South Indian food, despite the city's pride in its multicultural palate. While a few South Indian eateries have come and gone, some closing, others losing their unique character, Avartana unlocks that long-closed door. Here, the well-known Southern flavours are expertly and artistically reinvented, appealing to people who like eating, consider what they consume, and recognise when cuisine transcends beyond a simple meal.
South Indian Dining In Slow Motion
Avartana at ITC Royal Bengal perfectly fits the pace of luxury dining at any ITC hotel. Every element of the room seems to tell a narrative, and it seems serene and purposeful. The banana leaf, so central to South Indian culture, appears again and again on the carpets that ripple like gentle waves, on the partitions that hold patterns of banana stems and leaves. The space is easily warmed by the gentle hues, light wood, and silver upholstery. Hints of amber and copper capture the light here and there. The furniture is straightforward, well-balanced, and has a subtle brass touch that gives it a subdued appearance. The same idea is carried over into the table arrangement, which includes steel cutlery, bamboo holders, and clay plates that naturally rest next to transparent glass.
Tucked away is a smaller dining room that can accommodate ten people and is designed for leisurely eating and slow conversations. Above, a chandelier in the shape of a Kerala houseboat hangs, not so much to impress as to serve as a reminder of the starting point. The cuisine has a similar tone. It takes Southern tastes and subtly transforms them into new flavours. Though each dish has a distinct perspective, they nonetheless feel familiar. Avartana relates the traditional tales of Southern kitchens in a style that feels appropriate for this city without attempting to impress.
Image Credit: Avartana, ITC Royal Bengal, Kolkata
Image Credit: Avartana, ITC Royal Bengal, Kolkata
Perhaps that is why the people wanted to spend here. The caution was outweighed by the curiosity. Different was what Avartana promised. South Indian cuisine was a contemplative play of flavours, textures, and recollections rather than the typical dosa-idli meal. It read like poetry on the menu. Maya, Bela, Jiaa, Anika, and Tara, each dish moulded with a contemporary hand and smells of coconut, curry leaves, pepper, and tamarind.
Food As Performance
For once, the austere Bengali didn't mind pushing that boundary. With each dish striking a balance between surprise and nostalgia, the cuisine spoke a familiar language with fresh expressions. Mocktails and cocktails infused with bright citrus, southern warmth, and Indian botanicals joined in. Avartana subtly filled the void left by South Indian dining in a city where fine-dining discussions had long since faded, offering Kolkata a chance to rediscover an old comfort food freshly.
The restaurant's popularity stems from its skilled chefs, an emphasis on South Indian spices and ingredients, and a deft blend of international culinary methods. Everything is presented with flair, originality, and the ideal amount of drama; sometimes even with a few spheres or a little smoke. What appears to be a leaf stencil is delivered in a little bowl. Tiny droplets of beetroot chutney adorn this curry leaf dish, serving as a palate-tingling precursor to the main course. Presented in a martini glass after French-pressing tomatoes into the transparent broth created with garlic, cumin, and crushed black pepper, the rasam was like the warmest of hugs. I could eat stir-fried chicken and buttermilk mouse all day when it arrived in an intriguing piece of stone-carved serveware inspired by the craftsmen of Mahabalipuram. However, the accompanying curry leaf tempura was the dish's high point.
Image Credit: Avartana, ITC Royal Bengal, Kolkata
The cooperation is what makes this interesting. A team of chefs collaborates to develop everything, from research to the finished dish. Remarkably, the majority of them are not from typical South Indian culinary backgrounds. That's deliberate; it keeps their thoughts original and unrestrained. For example, consider their take on parotta and chicken curry. Soft parotta and creamy coconut chicken transform the traditional Malabar dish into a bite-sized pleasure. The turn of events? A little ‘toffee’ coated in beetroot skin and prepared from Uthukuli white butter.
Image Credit: Avartana, ITC Royal Bengal, Kolkata
Image Credi: Avartana, ITC Royal Bengal, Kolkata
Image Credit: Avartana, ITC Royal Bengal, Kolkata
Shrimp & Coriander Dumpling with Chilli Coriander Jam and Pan Seared Lobster with Spring Onion Emulsion, served on a glass platter that reminded me of the ones my grandmother had, were the next courses. The famous Asparagus and Coconut Stew followed, and it was quite tasty. I would have licked the stew off that bowl if I weren't in a formal dining setting. After enjoying the Steamed Seabass with Fermented Gongura and the Lemon Leaf Sorbet, which was the ideal palate cleanser, the final savoury dish, Lamb Rice with Okra Yoghurt, introduced soothing tastes. I couldn't stop eating that curd even though I was nearly full!
The bar was raised by the desserts. A candle made of edible ghee is presented alongside a raw mango dessert. The server comes to your table, lights it up, and you can watch the ghee melt slowly on the pudding. After that, you smash some papad over it and savour this decadent blend of sweetness and sourness.
Image Credit: Avartana, ITC Royal Bengal, Kolkata
Avartana at ITC Royal Bengal stands out for having a deep awareness of its patrons, particularly the inquisitive, discriminating Bengali palate, in a city like Kolkata, where culinary discussions are as complex as its culture. Here, the goal is to produce dishes that strike a balance between thought, flavour, and beauty rather than merely impressing with smoke or theatrics.
Image Credit: Avartana, ITC Royal Bengal, Kolkata
Image Credit: Avartana, ITC Royal Bengal, Kolkata
Chef Nagpal and his staff recognise that some meats and vegetables don't always go well together, and they respect that. Instead, they offer unexpected combinations that don't violate custom. Yes, the costs are high, but each dish makes up for it with creativity, accuracy, and a fascinating narrative. Maybe that's why you'll hear a recurrent theme in discussions throughout the city, vegetarian food frequently steals the stage. And in a city that cherishes its meat, it's saying something.
Address: ITC Royal Bengal, 1, JBS Haldane Ave, Tangra, Kolkata, West Bengal 700105
Timings: 7 PM - 11 PM every day; 12:30 PM - 3:30 PM, 7 PM - 11 PM on Saturdays and Sundays.
Cost: INR 4,500 for two
