Originating in Eastern India, ghugni is now a popular street food in Kolkata, Bengal, Odisha, and Bihar. The migrant communities who arrived in the capital of West Bengal during the British era are believed to have brought this famous dish. This is now more than just a snack; it is a symbol of the city's diverse culinary culture. Locally referred to as "ghugni-walas," street vendors have been passing down their secrets of the recipes for generations, and each one has added its special touch to this traditional dish.
The main ingredient in its recipe is “motor dal”, or yellow peas, which are cooked with spices and frequently garnished with tamarind chutney, chopped onions, chillies, and coriander. It is packed with fibre and protein making it a nutritious choice.
Bihari ghugni is made using black chickpeas, (also known as kala chana), but Bengali and Odia versions are produced using dried white or yellow peas. People serve this dish with varied toppings and use it as a base to prepare various street food delights.
Selection Of The Right Ingredients
Dried yellow peas are the main ingredient which should be fresh and free of any contaminants. Choose the "Bengal gram" variant, which is popular in Kolkata, if it is available. Some basic spices should be used such as cumin seeds, turmeric powder, and garam masala; whole spices like bay leaves, cardamom, and cloves give a robust flavour. Additionally, fold in the ginger and fresh green chillies to infuse bland peas with spicy notes. Toppings of green chillies along with chopped onions and coriander bring a crunch and freshness. While potatoes are commonly added to the dish, some vendors also add their unique masala mix to differentiate their recipes from others.
Preparation Of The Peas
To begin, thoroughly rinse the peas until the water runs clear. After cleaning, soak the peas for 6 to 8 hours or overnight. Drain them and cook in a pressure cooker for three to four whistles on high heat. Lower the flame, and simmer for five more minutes. In the end, allow the pressure to come down naturally.
Cooking Process
To temper hot oil, add cumin seeds and bay leaf. Onions should be finely chopped and sautéed until they are lightly brown. Roast ginger-garlic paste until the raw smell disappears, and sprinkle spices like red chilli powder and turmeric powder along with a small amount of water. Season the ingredients with salt and drop in chopped tomatoes into the mixture Add the cooked potatoes and peas in the end, and cover to cook for approximately five minutes over medium heat.
Sprinkle the chopped coriander, garam masala powder, and roasted cumin powder, stir, and turn off the heat. Add green chilli, black salt, sliced onion, and a teaspoon of lemon juice as garnish. There are some varieties which include toppings like cooked egg and tamarind chutney.

Image Credit: Wikimedia Commons
Serving Tips
To make the lip-smacking street-style variant, add a small amount of tamarind chutney for sourness, chaat masala for a burst of flavour, or crispy fried coconut for robustness. It is usually eaten as an evening snack with crispy paratha or as a weekend brunch along with hot luchis.

Image Credit: Wikimedia Commons
