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'PLUM' IS A MISNOMER when it comes to Christmas cakes. These cakes are actually rich fruitcakes, filled with raisins, nuts, sultanas, cherries and what-have-you. And commonly in India, there's even candied papaya, or "tutti-frutti" as we call it, which is used oh-so-generously in Christmas cakes.
In Goa, people tend to get plum cakes at every little bakery in their neighbourhood, or may prefer to get them from well-known bakeries across the state for occasions like Christmas. Traditionally, it was the "Baath" — a semolina and coconut cake — that was considered Christmas cake in Goa. But over the years, traditions have changed, and people have settled for plum cakes.
We set off on a taste test of plum cakes across five of Panaji's best-known bakeries. Here's our verdict.
Cake-Stop 1: Perfect Bakery
Among Goa's older bakeries, Perfect (established in the 1970s) is known for its cakes, sweets and savoury items. A gooey, delicious plum cake is their specialty for Christmas. Dry fruits, spices and rum are used generously to make this traditional cake, that has a distinctive dense texture and taste.
Our verdict: One of the most decadent plum cakes you'll ever have.
Cake-Stop 2: Truffles
At Truffles, the fruits that go into their Christmas cakes are soaked in alcohol several months in advance. The cake itself is slow baked, and liquor is added at every stage until the loaf is steeped in it. This is the secret to its moist crumb.
Our verdict: Bite into Truffles' plum cake and you'll taste all the fruits, the nuts — which add a crunchy texture, and the alcohol that makes this one very heady slice of Christmas.
Cake-Stop 3: Pastry Cottage
Mellow, crumbly, subtle — the plum cake at Pastry Cottage is very different from what we've sampled so far on our taste test. The flavour of the fruits is quite pronounced.
Our verdict: Rich, delicious.
Cake-stop 4: Confeitaria 31 De Janeiro
Date-and-walnut, cherry-plum, rum-raisin — there are three types of Christmas cakes at the renowned Confeitaria 31 de Janeiro. Clearly, they don't believe in doing things by half measures. Gletta Mascarenhas, the owner, says Confeitaria has followed the same recipe book since the bakery opened its doors in the 1930s. The recipes are a family heirloom, handed down to each generation. Fruits are soaked in alcohol for at least three months before being used, and the oven is a wood-fired one. The cakes stay fresh for a long, long time.
Our verdict: Top-notch.
Cake-stop 5: Cremeux
The Panaji branch of this pan-Goa chain has a traditional Christmas plum cake with all the trappings — including an absolutely delectable fondant layer. They also do a fondant-less version for those who aren't fans of the topping. (Although you'd be missing out because Cremeux's icing is thick and velvety.) The spices infuse the cake with their warming flavours, while the fruits make it rich. The marzipan fondant icing gives the cake depth, making it a Christmas cake in the true sense of the term.
Our verdict: Matchless, sumptuous. Merry Christmas to you all!
