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It’s the Year of the Dragon, folks! Also known as the Spring Festival or Chinese New Year, the lunar new year marks the beginning of the year according to the traditional lunar calendar. Besides China, the Lunar New Year is celebrated in different parts of Asia, and across different cultures. Much of the holiday revolves around festive meals shared with loved ones and some of the dishes even have spiritual significance.
For instance, steamed fish symbolize abundance and dumplings signify signal wealth (in Ancient China gold ingots were dumpling-shaped), whereas long, homemade noodles are thought to be symbols of longevity (so, don’t cut your noodles!).
Though meaty preparations are the most talked about aspect of Lunar New Year feasts, be it some tongue-tingling spicy lamb, pan-fried duck or crispy pork, several families across the world observe a vegetarian diet, as per Buddhist traditions. Every Lunar New Year menu across the world, however lavish or low-key, is primarily anchored around family traditions and recipes that have been passed down through generations. We spoke to some of India's celebrated chefs and food personalities who share a connection with this heritage to know more about their family New Year traditions and the big reunion dinners!
'New Year Means Joy, Family Gathering, And Unforgettable Feasts’
For the Thams, new year traditions have evolved over the years. This year the annual family feast on New Year’s Day will take place at one of their own restaurants. Third-generation restaurateur Keenan Tham, who’s the managing director and co-founder of Pebble Street Hospitality that runs the Asian tapas brand Foo and Asian diner KOKO, shares, “This year, for Chinese New Year, our family will be gathering at Foo Bandra for lunch. In addition to the regular menu, the chef has prepared a few Chinese New Year specialties which we are looking forward to.”
Some of their traditions, however are still kept alive by family members during their annual gathering, like placing mandarins and incense sticks at their dining table.
“Over the years, our family's traditions have evolved, yet we remain dedicated to preserving our Chinese heritage. An annual gathering on Chinese New Year stands as an opportunity for our family to gather together and celebrate. The customary practice of giving hóngbāo (red envelopes) to the younger generation persists, along with offering gifts, sweets as tokens of blessings and goodwill,” Tham says.
Some of the dishes at the Tham family table include steamed whole fish, char siu bao, roast pork, and Cantonese noodles. Their family traditions have also influenced the menus in their restaurants.
“At our restaurants Foo & KOKO across cities, the special curated menu is designed for the Year of The Dragon, and as always, we are set to welcome guests with traditional Lion Dances, fortune cookies, and the perfect ambience for a memorable Chinese New Year celebration,” says Tham.
'Tibetan Cookies And Fermenting Rice For Rice Wine Weeks In Advance'
Award winning chef Doma Wang, fondly known across the country as the ‘Momo Queen’, is of half-Chinese and half-Tibetan descent. Her family celebrates the Tibetan New year or Losar which falls on the same day as Chinese New Year; it marks the first day of the lunisolar Tibetan calendar and is celebrated across Tibet, Bhutan, Nepal, India and some other parts of Asia.
“We start preparing for the same by making Tibetan cookies and fermenting rice for rice wine weeks in advance. The tradition of sharing hampers with friends usually happens a few days before losar. In the old days people woke up very early and offerings of sweet rice called dresel along with rice wine and butter tea was offered to the alter after which the family partook of the same,” says Wang.
The chef who owns the popular Kolkata restaurant The Blue Poppy - Thakali shares that her fondest Losar memories are with her father. “My fondest memories of Losar are the happy memories of my father preparing a host of goodies and the table groaning under its weight. Also, new clothes and pocket money and all the gorgeous food!” she smiles.
A major highlight at Wang’s family table during the new year is the chimney soup. “We always had a chimney soup, that comprised of meat balls, fish balls, tofu, chicken,pork slices, greens and a flavourful stock. These were prepared the day before and assembled and served the following day,” the chef remarks.
“We also had my father’s famous shrimp and egg fried rice and pork momos stuffed with juicy pork and radish. I still keep the tradition alive and serve the same to my family on Losar,” Wang says. In fact, this recipe has influenced one of the best-selling numbers on Blue Poppy’s menu.
Wang’s oldest daughter Sachiko Seth, who co-runs Blue Poppy and was rated one of India’s top 10 youngest chefs, has introduced a ‘Popo’s Fried Rice’ to the menu (‘Popo’ in Tibetan refers to grandfather). “The cold noodles and pork shapta served at the blue poppy thakali is also one of the dishes inspired by our Losar traditions,” Wang adds.
