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The Portuguese shaped the cuisine of Goa in many ways, introducing foods and ingredients that hadn't been heard of in the region before, or tweaking existing dishes and recipes to incorporate European sensibilities and practices. Bread was a vital part of this influx for myriad reasons: It was a dietary staple for the Portuguese of course, but also, it featured in religious rituals such as Communion. The Portuguese therefore passed on their knowledge of baking, and of bread, to Goans, mainly those who had converted to Christianity. Over the years, pão came to occupy a ubiquitous position in Goan cuisine, across all communities. Here's a brief glossary of pão patois.
Pão: Portuguese name for bread; lightly browned and crusty on the outside, soft and fluffy on the inside
Pau: Konkani spelling of pão
Padeiro: Portuguese word for baker
Poder: Konkani for baker
Salcete: The region in Goa where the first locals were taught the secrets of pão making
Sura: Palm toddy, used by the Portuguese to leaven the pão in the absence of the more typical yeast. Was also used in the preparation of vinegar, which in turn was used to impart a sour, tangy flavour to food as well to ensure it was preserved for longer.
Wet yeast: Leavening agent now used for Goan pão
Poee: Also spelt as poie or simply poi; made of whole wheat and bran traditionally. Now made with a measure of maida (al-purpose flour) in addition to the whole wheat. It resembles a flat pouch, sort of like a pita bread pocket. Unlike pão, poee is directly baked on the floor of a wood-fired mud oven.
Bhakri/Kundeachi bhakri: Other names for poee
Kaalche kodi: Fish curry kept overnight; considered the best poee accompaniment. In the absence of fish curry, sorpotel, vindaloo, cafreal or xacuti will do.
Ross poee: Popular breakfast dish comprising a poee served with an omelette and a curry (usually xacuti)
Undo: Pão with a brittle crust, soft interior, and scored down the middle
Pokshe, poxe or pokshie: Other names for undo
Panke: A now-extinct sweet bread, shaped like a cupcake
Katre pão: Four-cornered bread shaped like scissors ('कात्री' in Konkani) from which it derives its name
Kankonn: Hard, bangle-shaped bread
Poderanche bol: Dough baked with sugar, coconut and cardamom
Kazaranche bol: A sweet North Goan bread, brownish-black in colour, and made of made of coconut, palm jaggery, coarse wheat and toddy, and served at weddings. Also known as Goddacho godd bol or Mapsheche bol.
Chau: Konkani for tea; to dip the pão in
Chouris pão: Goan pão stuffed with sausages
Forn: Wood-fired mud oven in which Goan pãos are baked
Cobai: Loose kebaya-like skirt made of flour sacks worn by poders when delivering bread in olden times
St. Honoré: Patron saint of poders
