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Finding a haven for health food that’s also comforting can be a tricky one to find in the bustling city of Mumbai – given how much the culinary scene has evolved over the course of the past few years. The quaint neighbourhood of Bandra, which is known for its multitude of organic cafes, restaurants serving up world cuisines and a great collection of dessert spots, finds itself with yet another addition in the form of Tropicool Café. Famously introducting Brazil’s Tropicool brand of açaí to city slickers, the casual eatery has a menu curated by Head Chef Jacklin John, formerly the Executive Chef at the Embassy of Brazil, New Delhi.
The crisp yet expansive menu, which highlights Brazilian staples like the açaí berry and tapioca flour transformed into traditional delicacies seemed intriguing yet familiar in its tastes when Slurrp paid a visit to the dining spot. Tropicool – a global superfood brand founded in 2019 by Rafael do Prado Ribeiro and Caio Nabuco – brings the earthy superfood aka the açaí berry to its franchises which currently span over ten countries. Exporting them in frozen form to preserve its freshness and extend its shelf life, its Mumbai edition pays an ode to the berry in the form of smoothie bowls, puddings, açaí-infused hot chocolate and even a complex açaí-infused balsamic dressing that features prominently on their menu.
Tapioca Wrap (L); Açaí Bowl (R)
Explaining this further, chef Jacklin says that, “The decision to develop a Brazilian menu for the cafe was deeply rooted in Tropicool’s origins as a Brazilian brand. As the first all-Brazilian cafe in India, it was only natural for us to bring the vibrant and unique flavours of Brazil to our patrons. Our goal was to create an authentic experience that embodies the essence of Brazilian culture, making it accessible and enjoyable for Indian diners. The menu, therefore, reflects our commitment to showcasing the best of Brazilian street food, tropical beverages and premium coffee, all while retaining the authenticity that makes Brazilian cuisine so special.”
As we kick-off the meal with a portion of their crunchy sweet potato chips and pão de queijo – also referred to as Brazilian cheese breads – the meal is off to a strong beginning. As expected, the sweet potato chips became a great precursor, served with five different dips – a herby chimichurri, garlic mayonnaise, an interesting mango hot sauce, the açaí-infused balsamic and xx. Following close in impressiveness, the cheese breads developed what was essentially a crisp outer shell which housed stringy cheese, making them ideal to polish off the flavoursome and robust dips.
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Speaking of his inspiration to design a menu that was truly Brazilian in every way, Jacklin also talks about how a ‘deep-dive into Brazilian culture’ was an essential aspect of the process. He adds that, “The cuisine is a rich tapestry influenced by various cultures, including Portuguese, African, and indigenous South American traditions. Interestingly, many of these influences resonate with the culinary practices in Goa, where Portuguese cuisine has left a significant mark. We realized that Indian diners – particularly those familiar with Goan food, would find a natural affinity with Brazilian dishes. Drawing these parallels, we aimed to create a menu that is both familiar and exciting, offering diners a chance to explore the vibrant flavours of Brazil in a way that feels accessible and relatable.”
Pão De Queijo (L); Dadinho De Tapioca (R)
True to chef’s statement, the Ocean Sun – a moreish tapioca wrap filled with onions, tomatoes, shrimp and a mango salsa fared high on the list of favourites, mainly due to its interesting interplay of textures and flavours. The bright fruitiness of the salsa, tender shrimp and a crispy-chewy wrap encasing this delicious filling is perfect to enjoy as a light meal on days when your appetite falters. Echoing similar freshness and flavour was Tropicool’s take on the watermelon-feta salad; which was done slightly differently courtesy of the addition of musk melon, açaí berries and a generous drizzle of the açaí balsamic dressing and feta cheese. The tartness of the berries coupled with the salty feta and mellow sweetness from the two different types of fruit brought together the best of all worlds in a bowl which is ideal to share or eat on a hot day.
As the meal progresses further, Jacklin points out the many similarities between Indian and Brazilian cuisines – due to the shared culinary traditions of the Portuguese – more particularly Goan food. Jacklin explains, “Since Brazilian and Goan cuisines have been influenced by these culinary traditions, it has resulted in a shared use of ingredients like coconut milk, which is prevalent in many of their traditional dishes. This creates a profile that is both rich and comforting, resonating with the diners. Additionally, the use of fresh, locally sourced ingredients and the emphasis on bold, hearty flavours are characteristics that are common to both cuisines.”
Moqueca De Cãmarao (L); Seasonal Açaí Bowl (R)
However, designing a menu that embodies authentic flavours can also be an uphill task, given the unfamiliarity of dishes which might strike those new to the cuisine. Having breakfast dishes like omelettes and open toasts stemmed from such a decision, with the intent of being inclusive to all kinds of diners. We picked the simplistic avocado toast that was served with cream cheese and the balsamic dressing as well as the salmon option which was layered with the bright and zesty chimichurri – allowing the freshness of the fish to be the star of the show. What also seemed like a plausible challenge was how to best showcase the açaí berry across a number of food and beverage options, given that the superfood is the USP of the café’s concept.
“Incorporating açaí into our menu was both an exciting and challenging process – especially when it came to balancing its distinctive, earthy taste with other ingredients like balsamic vinegar. Açaí, being a superfood from the Brazilian Amazon, has a unique taste profile that requires careful consideration when pairing with other flavours. During the creative process, we went through several iterations of the balsamic dressing, experimenting with different ratios and complementary ingredients to achieve the perfect balance. Fortunately, my extensive experience with Latin-American cuisine, spanning over a decade, provided us with the expertise needed to fine-tune the flavours,” Jacklin quips.
For an establishment that prides itself on bringing an authentic açaí experience to the city, the meal would be incomplete without ordering a fruity açaí bowl – especially when it promises to be original and authentic – as well as chef Jacklin’s top recommendation. The earthy, pleasant tartness of the berries formed the base of what appeared to be a frozen sorbet-like mixture, topped with a crunchy house-made granola, sliced bananas and pomegranate seeds. Balancing the clean flavours while also being filling at the same time, the cold and soothing portion felt healthy without making one feel heavy.
We quiz the chef about how his experiences working in the space have translated into the vibrant offerings at Tropicool as we await our squid and prawns cooked in a brown butter sauce. “My experience as a professional chef has taught me the importance of balancing flavours and textures to create dishes that are satisfying and memorable. I applied these learnings here by designing a menu that bridges the culinary preferences of Indian and Brazilian diners. For instance, while Brazilians have a strong preference for BBQs and salads, Indians often gravitate towards curries and rice,” Jacklin adds.
