When the sun rises over Udupi, it brings with it the sweet scent of caramelized flour and hot ghee. Those who live in temple town are very familiar with this odor, which grows stronger as people make their way to their favorite breakfast place. This distinct aroma can be attributed to the preparation of various types of dosa on hot iron griddles that are lined with generous dollops of ghee. Almost every other household in the South Canara region makes it for breakfast, in various avatars, from the humble paper dosa to decked-out plates of open butter masala dosa.
The origins of the crepe have long been the subject of much heated debate, with aficionados of the breakfast item split between two schools of thought: the first that the dosa originated in Udupi, Karnataka, and the second that it was consumed across the state of Tamil Nadu centuries prior. Both Tamil and Udupi dosa batters use identical ingredients; the difference lies in the actual preparation of the crepe itself; Udupi dosas are thinner and crispier, whereas Tamil dosas are softer and thicker. To this day, both types of dosa are enjoyed throughout southern India; it is not unusual to find dosa prepared in the Udupi style at a Tamil restaurant or vice versa.
The South Canaran region today has the largest number of traditional dosa preparations, with chefs constantly developing new recipes, and improving on old favorites. The preparation for the crepe begins the day before it is to be served, necessitated by the long soak time required to soften the grains that are to be used for the batter. The exactness of the grains and the ratios thereof are often unique to the locale or household in consideration. That said, almost every dosa batter centers around grains like lentils and rice, with variations calling for the addition of ingredients like fenugreek seeds and poha to enhance the texture and taste of the crepe. The grains take anywhere from 4-6 hours to soften, after which they are rinsed and blended together with salt to taste. The resulting batter is left on the counter overnight to ferment due to the action of natural yeasts. The fermentation is key to the dosa’s characteristic tang, and also the texture of the final product. If the batter is not fermented enough, the resulting dosa will be thick and flavorless, while if it is fermented too much, it will be too runny and overly sour.
Most dosas on the coast use this batter to make paper dosas of varying sizes, that may be eaten as is with chutney and sambar, or used as the base of a dish like the masala dosa. The masala dosa is said to have been invented in Udupi during the late 1940s, in the legendary Mitra Samaj restaurant. The restaurant is still running today, helmed by Achutha Holla, the youngest son of the founder, Nittur Gopal Holla. Mitra Samaj is joined by the likes of other institutions, such as Hotel Diana and Woodlands Restaurant, in serving some of the best dosas in the Udupi district.
Most hotels serve the same types of dosas; namely, paper, set, rava, masala, neer, ragi, and pesarattu.
Paper Dosa: This is the most popular dosa on the South Canara coast. It is made by using a simple batter that features rice and lentils. This dosa is thin, and incredibly crisp, making for a great base for heavier dishes like the masala dosa or a light snack on its own served with sambar and chutney.
Set Dosa: The set dosa is made with a batter similar to that used for the ubiquitous paper dosa, but is much thicker. Crepes made using this batter are much smaller compared to other types of dosa, and are served in a "set" or stack of three to four dosas, along with accompaniments like chutney and sambar. The uttapam, a popular variation on this type of dosa, is distinguished by the addition of chopped onion, tomato, and coriander to the batter.
Rava Dosa: The rava dosa is made with a thin rava (semolina) batter, making for a crumblier, crispier crepe. The batter is not fermented and may feature inclusions such as chopped onion and coriander. Some restaurants may color their batter with turmeric powder in an effort to make the dish more appealing. A specialized griddle is used to prepare the rava dosa, after which it is cut to size, in the form of an elongated rectangle that is folded onto a plate. The dosa is popularly enjoyed with vegetable korma and coconut chutney.
Pesarattu: The batter for this dosa uses green gram as a base and is flavored with ginger and sometimes cumin. The batter is not fermented, making it a great recipe for busy mornings. The dosa is popularly served with upma, or ginger chutney.
Neer Dosa: This dosa is made using a thin, unfermented batter that features just three ingredients - rice, water, and salt. The dosa is served with coconut chutney as well as non-vegetarian fare like chicken ghee roast or sukka.
Ragi Dosa: This dosa is made using ragi as an addition to regular dosa batter. The ragi powder is added to the batter after it has fermented, along with a generous splash of water to help thin it out. Chopped chilies may be added to the batter for flavor.
Some communities may make dosa with endemic inclusions, such as majjige (buttermilk), puli (tamarind), and soppu (spinach). Dosas may also be flavored with ingredients like cheese and schezwan sauce, to make crepes that are more accessible to millennials and people from other cultures.
