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Two flights of stairs at Mohan Singh Place in Connaught Place lead to a cafe that has become an institution over the years. While Delhi’s Indian Coffee House is well known among intellectuals, writers and actors, the first Indian Coffee House was established in Mumbai in 1936. It became popular instantly and its success led to the opening of 72 outlets across the country. With great acumen, the Indian Coffee Board chose locations close to colleges, offices and stations, which ensured a large customer base.
The appeal of the chain could be attributed to the fact that most coffee houses from that period were run by the British and discriminated against Indians. However, the Coffee Board decided to shut all outlets by the mid 1950s due to a lull in business and change in policy. Around this time, popular communist leader A.K. Gopalan impelled workers from the coffee houses into action, and encouraged them to form a cooperative and take over business from the Board.
Soon after, the brand was established as a worker cooperative and renamed the Indian Coffee House. The first two outlets opened in Bangalore and New Delhi in 1957. The place was run independently and signified the sovereignty of workers. Indian Coffee House’s Delhi branch was shut when Indira Gandhi declared The Emergency of India during 1975-77. It soon reopened at its current location. The Bangalore’s outlet was located at M.G. Road but lost a legal battle with the owners of the building in 2009. It reopened, too—with the same heritage décor—at Church Street, to the same loyal customers.
Today, 400 branches of Indian Coffee House operate across India. Each one is a marker of the country’s heritage. Some of these outlets are still doing well, based on the legacy they carry, while others are struggling to survive amidst burgeoning coffee chains. Kerala has 51 of these outlets, which is the highest number among all states. The Thrissur outlet was founded in 1958 and was inaugurated by A.K. Gopalan himself.
The Delhi outlet has seen patronage that includes activists and political leaders, especially during the 1960s and 1970s. Today, the place retains its unassuming decor and atmosphere where intellectual conversations thrive. Formica tables and mismatched chairs serve as the setting for creative discussion. The ceiling fans creak and waiters bring out orders at their own pace. The menu includes tea and snacks like dosas, omelettes, and french fries. A cup of coffee costs 40 rupees. Both older men and young artists can be spotted in the environs, perhaps talking about current times or of an era gone by.
