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Roman by birth but of Abruzzo origins, Adriano Baldassarre is known for his successful career sprinkled with prestigious collaborations with Locatelli in London, Antonello Colonna at Labico and Heinz Beck, and his experience as the head chef of the legendary restaurant Tordomatto in Zagarolo - where he won the Michelin Star in 2007, making him one of the youngest chefs to receive this esteemed recognition. He also spent two years in India as an executive of Vetro at The Oberoi, Mumbai, after which he returned to Italy and opened Tordomatto in the center of Rome.
Currently in Delhi is he redoing the menu at Perbacco at The Lodhi, that offers an inventive approach to contemporary Italian dining infused with traditional flavours.
Tell us something about your growing up years? How much influence did food had on you?
As a child, I used to get inspired watching my grandparents cook at home, and by their lifestyle and the traditional flavours that have been in my family for generations. This led towards my passion for cooking. I started attending a cooking school at the age of 14 and began my career journey training at restaurants in Italy.
When I was 22, I started working with Chef Giorgio Locatelli at the Michelin Star Restaurant ‘Zafferano’ in London. I also worked with Antonello Colonna, Heinz Beck, and The Oberoi, Mumbai, which were great learning experiences for me. When I returned to Italy, I opened my own restaurant, Tordomatto where I won the Michelin Star at the age of 30, making me one of the youngest chefs to win this recognition.
Potato and Cauliflower Fagottelli, Spring Onion, Walnut and Black Truffle
Perbacco offers an inventive approach to contemporary Italian dining infused with traditional flavours. The restaurant has a classic Italian selection as well as offerings with a contemporary twist.
How has your Indian experience been? How easy or difficult was it for you to understand the Indian palate?
My first experience in India was in 2014 as the Executive Chef of Vetro at The Oberoi, Mumbai. Having worked in Mumbai and Delhi, I have a fair understanding of Indian cuisine.
It has been a great experience sharing my passion for Italian food with the guests and people here. And the process of knowledge exchange has been beautiful - spreading my knowledge here, and taking new learnings back with me. Through this experience, I have been able to develop a richer flavour portfolio and a bag that has allowed me to expand the ability to use and combine more ingredients among them.
What’s that one food memory that makes you go nostalgic?
When I was a kid, my grandmother would make fresh bread and would keep some leftover dough aside. On summer mornings, we would make a kind of pizza using that dough by cooking it in a pan with little oil, and adding some salt, figs, and homemade extra virgin olive oil on top.
While in India which is that one place you never miss to visit?
If I am in Mumbai, I make it a point to go to Pali Bhavan for their great food.
