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In the gamut of the very underrated Parsi cuisine, certain delicacies – particularly the topli nu paneer – have been oblivious in public awareness. As a reference to the palm-sized baskets in which this buffalo milk based fresh cheese is made, the soft, jelly-like delicacy traces its Indian origins to the rural pockets of Surat in Gujarat. Considered to be a staple at Parsi wedding feasts, the ‘paneer’ is made in varying sizes – from palm-sized to larger portions that can feed a small group. Traditionally made by splitting buffalo milk using calf rennet or chuzda, the topli paneer was recreated in India by the Parsi community keeping in mind the larger population’s dietary beliefs.
Hence, the inner lining of chicken giblets cleaned with rice flour and salt were then minced finely and added to a large tub of milk, following which the liquid would split and its curds collected. While most cheese-making involves the liquid from curds to be drained heavily, the topli paneer is placed in woven baskets that allow the water to drain slowly but not completely – allowing it to maintain its jelly-like texture. Once the cheese is flipped on both sides for drainage, it is soaked in mildly salted water until ready to be eaten.
Image Credits: Niloufer's Kitchen
Due to their delicate softness, the topli paneer is considered to be an essential dish that features on the banana leaf feasts at Parsi weddings – known for its velvety texture and salty-tangy flavour. Although originating in Persia, the paneer has now become a key element which plays its role as a precursor in most lavish meals. The elusive delicacy, which has slowly diminished from the mainstream culinary scene, even within the community, was also consumed for breakfast devoid of accompaniments and believed to be good for digestion.
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Within the contemporary culinary space, the topli nu paneer has featured prominently in the menu of a select few fine dining restaurants as well as in sweet preparations by home bakers. Closest in resemblance to a creamy burrata with the jiggle similar to a panna cotta, the topli paneer also imbibes the pattern of the basket it sits in before it is ready for consumption.
