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When Britishers began to rule India, one of their primary concerns was they needed places to socialise with the elites and establish a clear class and racial demarcation in Indian society. Hence, many gentlemen’s clubs and gymkhanas came into existence across the country. From New Delhi to Bengaluru and Karachi to Kolkata, major cities and presidencies featured prestigious clubs that initially allowed entry to only Europeans.
The colonisers indulged in recreational activities, played games, discussed politics, read books, and enjoyed the finest dining facilities. Through these clubs, the Britishers managed to preserve their culture in a foreign country and managed to replicate a small part of the culture of Britain. Gradually, Indian elites became a part of the mini England these clubs symbolised.
After the partition of India in 1947, these clubs have evolved significantly but still possess some DNA of the past. As India celebrates its 78th Independence Day on August 15, it is time to witness the evolution of these royal clubs and gymkhanas in New Delhi from the lens of culture and food to see how the night changes.
Cultural Scene Of Pre-Independence Gymkhanas And Colonial Clubs In New Delhi
Image Credit: The Chelmsford Club, Unsplash
In the late 19th and early 20th century, many of these colonial clubs came into existence in New Delhi, the capital of the undivided India. The Delhi Gymkhana Club, formerly called Imperial Delhi Gymkhana Club, is among the most famous because it was designed and built by British architect Robert T Russel in the 1930s. He also designed two other landmarks in the capital - the Commanders-in-Chief residence, which was later called Teen Murti (residence of the first prime minister of India Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru) and the Connaught Place, the shopping and dining hub of the capital.
Another exclusive social club that has survived the partition and 77 years of independence is The Chelmsford Club, built in 1913 and named after Lord Chelmsford, the Viceroy of India. It served as a ground for British dignitaries, military officers, and civil servants to gather, socialise, dine, and drink. It hosted Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru, the first prime minister of India, Marshall Field Marshall K.M. Cariappa, the first commander-in-chief, Mohammad Rafi, Lata Mangeshkar, and many other artists and renowned personalities.
While Delhi Gymkhana Club and The Chelmsford Club saw dignitaries indulging in politics over dining, The Roshanara Club was established in 1922 to serve as a ground for colonial rulers and elites to enjoy different sports, especially cricket. It was also the venue for many social events that hosted countless politicians, artists, sportspersons, and dignitaries.
Continental And Anglo-Indian Food Served At Pre-Independence Gymkhanas And Colonial Clubs
Since gymkhanas and royal clubs were designed and built by Britishers, for many years the food that was served was largely English, for example, sausages and eggs. One could find roasted and grilled meat, seafood items like fish and chips, salmon, grilled fish and more, delicate pastries, different kinds of soups, and high-end desserts.
Some Anglo-Indian dishes were also a part of the dining scene at these elite clubs. Mulligatawny soup, curries with rice, and Indian gravies, made with coconut milk or fresh cream to soften the sharp notes of spices, gradually became a part of lunches and dinners served during gatherings and parties.
If you speak about the food landscape in the pre-independence era, you cannot forget tea and high-end tea parties. The beverage was served with finger sandwiches, scones, biscuits, and delicate desserts similar to what many Hindi movies, Indian films, and TV series have showcased. These clubs were also the places where Britishers and Indians enjoyed booze. They often enjoyed refreshing cocktails with whisky, rum, brandy, and gin. When formal dinners were organised, every guest had to abide by the etiquette that Britishers followed and service also reflected the traditions and culture of England.
Apart from restricted access and dress codes, for both men and women, guests had to abide by the dining rules that included the proper use of cutlery, glassware, and napkins. The highest-ranking official on the table was served first followed by the others (similar was the order of eating). These clubs ensure that no one behaves improperly at social gatherings and parties, if found guilty, the person had to face disciplinary actions.
Evolution Of Dining Scene In Pre-Independence Gymkhanas And Colonial Clubs
Image Credit: Delhi Gymkhana Club, Unsplash
After the partition of India in 1947, there was a cultural shift at the gymkhanas and colonial clubs in New Delhi. Not only did dress regulations shift but food scenes also changed vividly. Indian dishes were added to the menu. Reportedly, the Delhi Gymkhana Club has a separate dining room in which Chinese and Thai dishes are also served.
If you visit the website of The Chelmsford Club, you will notice that their menu now caters to an audience with a preference for vegetarian and vegan food. Not just that, a member can enjoy Indian chaat dishes and snacks served with tea.
Popular Indian delights like dal makhani, kebabs, parathas, butter chicken, paneer curries, aloo dishes, and chole replaced mildly spiced Anglo-Indian dishes. As the clientele has changed after more than seven decades of independence, the colonial clubs in New Delhi cater to their tastes. Colonisers might have built these royal clubs, but the food served at these places is desi.
Representative Images From Unsplash
