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IT IS SIMPLY A FACT: Five-star hotels have been the sandbox for budding chefs to build their castles. Before the critically-acclaimed chefs in our country stormed the Bastille with their standalone joints, they had singed their tongues on tasting spoons at these luxurious, white tablecloth establishments.
While the proletariats did win, and it will always be so much cooler to eat in loud, crowded restaurants with no tablecloths, t-shirted waiters and mismatched cutlery and crockery. We’d be kidding ourselves if we didn’t admit that we’re still overdrafting our bank accounts to pay at these joints with a more casual air. And yes, perfection can be a tad stuffy, but it also simply means attention to the little details, and in reality, it smacks of professionalism. And if this writer can swish through these verdant grounds and polished floors of The Oberoi in Bengaluru, then these places aren’t as prim as promised either.
Tso good
Over this year, Wabi Sabi, The Oberoi’s speciality Asian restaurant, has been going through a bit of a refresh. In the early part of 2025, chef Randy Cultivo shook up the menu with his array of Japanese Nikkei dishes. And they’re wrapping up the year with the Wabi Sabi co-lead, chef Ablu Bhowmick, striking a balance with his takes on Chinese cuisine that harmonise traditional dishes with surprising bursts of flavours. Our choices off the menu seemingly reflect the chef’s approach as well. Our first dish – a tofu and three jade soup – reflects his more studied approach; it subtly tempts. From within the clearest broth tease the tops of tofu formed into a many-petalled flower, emerald strands of spinach, chives, and kailan, or Chinese broccoli. Skirting our spoons into this soup was like wrecking a snow globe, but it was worth it.
We then smothered little, steamed wraps of yam bean, daikon and lotus stem with a vegetarian XO sauce that still echoed the deep savouriness of the non-vegetarian standard. And demolished a serving of discs of tenderloin tataki drizzled with a marrow glaze – the decadence, of course, is that the magic happens tableside: a shock of flame from a torch firing the marrow into a fine sauce that rains onto the marbled meat. Roasted duck robed in hoisin butter and Sichuan pepper, tucked into a textured jacket of taro puff, was a crunchy, caramelised relish, and its bite prepped us for the crackle of the pork belly. The twice-cooked pork belly was as crisp and comforting as a December morning in Bengaluru and disappeared from our plates just as quickly. The steamed Chilean black cod dish was the much-needed interlude in this rising crescendo of courses. This fine, understated dish reminded us to appreciate the toned-down flavours too: buttery fish gently spiked with the sweet, herbaceousness of leeks and scallions, and the gentlest introduction of soy for its aroma alone.
The wok of life
The volume on flavours was turned up again with the arrival of our three mains: a Filipino traveller’s chicken, Chengdu-style dan dan noodles and truffle fried rice. In the first of the mains, the juiciest chicken thigh was smothered in umami-rich soy sauce, jiving with the tartness of vinegar umbrella-ed by the crispiest tempura shiso leaf. The dan dan noodles were a melange of delight, delicious depth and pungent funk, and the udon noodles were sturdy delivery vehicles for this punch. And the fried rice was a theatre of textures: a trio of meaty mushrooms, the earthy hit of truffle paste and the frizzle of tempura enoki florets, it was simple but special.
Until now, our dishes weren’t sleight of hand but rather honest, honed handling of flavours, but with the dessert, the chef shows us that he can be playful in presentation too. In the Wabi Sabi caviar box, berry-coloured and tasting chocolate was moulded into a round box holding a soft, sweet pillow of lactose-free banana cremeux studded with pearls of dark chocolate. This decadence of caviar bursting out of its can, mirrored in chocolate excess, was a rich ending to the meal. But this dessert did feel like it came from another songbook. An interesting juxtaposition to the peaks and valleys in the resounding crescendo of our main meal.
The next day, we weren’t just cloaked in the memories of our meal; we got to relive them while biting into squares of the absolutely yummy pork belly that jazzed up our plate of ghar ka khana.
Five-star establishments hold wonder because they continue to be playgrounds for the fantasies of chefs and clientele, and for always adding that certain je nais se quoi of luxe – even if it’s on a Tuesday night.
Wabi Sabi, The Oberoi Bengaluru, 37-39, Mahatma Gandhi Road, call 25585858 for reservations. Every day, 12.30-3 pm & 7-11.30 pm.
