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ANYONE older than an elder millennial will definitely need the dictionary definition of the Gen Z slang phrase ‘no cap’. So, here it is. Informal; US English: used to assert that something is true or not exaggerated.
Want us to use it in a sentence for you? Here goes: The pizzas at this new chef-led, pizza-forward workshop on Ulsoor Road in the city are absolutely delish, no cap.
Knead to know
Once within the glass walls of Pizza No Cap, this little more than a month-old, 40-seater, ground-floor pizzeria with a workshoppy vibe, we were transported to a relaxed, easy-going environment. Under the soft light streaming out of cleverly-placed glass storage jars, one notices the glint of the polished grey cement floor, the metal folding chairs with their pop of coloured cushions, the aesthetically damaged patches of exposed brick, and design accents of industrial metalwork. From any of the seating options – counter-seating, communal tables and seating for gangs of four or intimate twos – one still has a view of the entire process of pizza-making from the dough to the fire. We chose to sit with our former fashion merchandiser at one of the tables for four with a direct view of the glowing mouth of the oven.
We scan the inventive, tightly-edited and vibrantly-designed menu of small plates, pizzettes, 11-inch pizzas, salads, desserts and in-house fermented beverages designed by the trio of chefs – Rahul Singh, Siddharth Nest and Vichita Kumar (of Bar Sama and ex-Comal). Quite quickly, we’re picking out options under the many headings. Soon, our table looks prettier with small plates of Grilled Eggplant, Harissa & Fresh Moz; The Morning After – Steak & Eggs and Grilled Salmon, Nori & Ponzu and the Parma & Peru pizzette.
We’re eating as much with our eyes as with our stomachs. The grilled eggplant dish was a scrumptious play of textures, tastes and temperatures. It was a warm, silken eggplant with the chill, crumblings of fresh mozzarella, the punch of harissa paste, the fresh flash of basil pesto and crackle of crispy garlic. The hearty steak and eggs was determined in its mission to thoroughly satisfy with some help from the rash of bacon and creamy brie. And the salmon serving felt like a modern, Japanese twist on fish and chips. Fleshy, flaky fish coated in a savoury robe of miso and wrapped in salty, crunchy seaweed brightened with lemon ponzu and a tartare sauce. It was an imaginative, fun bite loaded with deep flavour.
Eminent dough, man!
Already seriously impressed with the food at Pizza No Cap, we tear into our pizzette – a mini pizza. With ribbons of sweet, savoury ham and healthy lashings of guava jam, our pizzette is delicious. Ham and fruit is a traditional pairing, but the inclusion of guava jam is so cutely local; such a delightful mish-mashing of the expensive and the everyday on a restaurant’s menu is always a cheeky thrill.
While we wait for pies of The Kerala Flex and Cider Pork, Spinach & Pineapple. We sip on our drink of Strawberries & Cream – a fizzy strawberry shrub capped with a cream foam – that looks straight out of the pages of Archie Comics.
The beef peppery fry atop this pizza would confuse even the steeliest of ammachis but would also make her super proud. And it isn’t just well-made Kerala-style beef pepper fry dumped upon bouncy dough that has been cold fermented for 96 hours; instead, each element has technique; garnishing of curry leaves turned into aioli and coconut chips toasted to perfection for that clever addition of texture as another dimension to the eating experience. Listen, dear reader, we are team pineapple as a pizza topping, chunks of this caramel-y, tart taste really catalyse all of the other flavours, we’re certain. Here, the pineapple really cuts through the pork lard; it allows for the refreshing sweetness of the cider to sing through, and for the earthy spinach to deliver a punch.
But there’s an attention to detail that betrays the fact that Pizza No Cap is most definitely led by a troika of chefs – there are add-on butters! We had the standard option of garlic-herbed butter, which is yum, to dip our pizza bones – the rim of the crust. But the flavour of the month: gondhoraj lebu butter was outstanding – fragrant, intense – we found ourselves wiping clean the ramekin. What a brilliant solution to waste not, want not!
Having achieved a complete state of relish, we’re still greedy for more. We decided to share a portion of the Banana & Brie – creamy, studded with walnuts, spiked with tart strawberries and the airy sweetness of creamy. We’re glad we pushed ourselves to the finish line!
It’s no exaggeration – Pizza No Cap is damn good.
Pizza No Cap is at TRN Horizon, 33/4, Ulsoor Road, Sivanchetti Gardens. Head here for reservations. Walk-ins are welcome too. Every day, Noon - 3 pm & 5 pm - 1 am.
