On a food exploration to Jaipur, I was keen to experience the Mughlai food, and the quest led me to the famous M M Khan Hotel in Ramganj Bazaar. M M Khan is a highly recommended restaurant known for its delicious Mughlai food. What seems like a basic set-up, with ‘Tawas’ and ‘Handis’ placed on the counter outside the restaurant, apparently has a well-decored and comfortable dining space on the first floor.
As my eyes had already spotted one of my favourite Mughlai dishes being cooked on the ‘Tawa’, I immediately ordered the ‘Changezi chicken’ with Hot and fresh ‘Khamiri Roti’. While it took less than 5 minutes for my food to be brought to the table, I interacted with the fellow diner ‘Javed’, who could not stop praising the ‘Nahari’ served at the restaurant - tempered in ‘Desi ghee’. The meat was well cooked and tender, with the right mix of chillies and ginger floating atop. Javed and I took a few bites of Nahari, appreciating its flavours and there came the big Bowl of ‘Changezi Chicken’ with hot and crispy ‘Khamiri Rotis’ I had ordered.
‘Changezi Chicken’ is a rich tomato onion gravy with spices and cream to create a luscious and balanced flavour. Roasted chicken is cooked in the gravy simmering on the hot and huge Tawa. ‘Khamiri Roti’ is leavened and fluffed like a blanket, which can engulf a big piece of chicken and soak a substantial amount of curry to pack maximum flavours in a single bite; it was hugely satisfying, letting the delicious taste of ‘Changezi Chicken’ bowl you over, with its depth of flavours. It is truly an enjoyable experience you shouldn’t miss out on if you love Mughlai cuisine.
On the other end of the old city of Jaipur, near the ‘Chand Pol’, is another legendary Mughlai restaurant called Muhammadi Palace. This multi-storeyed restaurant is located inside a heritage building embellished with beautiful interiors; An unmissable sight is their live cooking of Nahari in fire-inducing ‘Desi ghee’. The sight of ghee erupting flames of fire and further flambeing the meat as it falls over the Nahari bowl is enticing. Along with the Nahari, I ordered ‘Mutton Adlay Chaap', a famous gravy prepared with the famed red chillies of Rajasthan.
Muhammadi Palace serves various Mughlai dishes, ‘Roasted Chicken’, ‘Kebabs’, ‘Mutton Handi’ ‘, Chicken Handi’ ‘Kormas’ ( White and red) Kadhai dishes, to name a few. Mohammadi Palace is truly a haven for Mughlai cuisine lovers.
‘Nahari’ is a dish I ensure that I eat in every city I visit. I was looking forward to trying this exquisite dish in Jaipur’s popular eating hubs. ‘Nahari’ at Muhammadi Palace was distinct and delicious; overloaded with the heated ‘Ghee Tadka’, the mutton pieces were waiting to break down into shreds upon a single finger touch. As I wrapped the ‘Khamiri Roti’ over the piece of mutton, ghee dripped off the bread, yet holding enough flavours to let my taste buds moan in pleasure. ‘Nahari’ was spicier and closer to Delhi’s version of the ‘Nahari’ in terms of the heat.
‘Mutton Adlay Chaap’ is a true testimony to the beautiful amalgamation of Mughlai and Rajputana Flavours. Mughlai cuisine is known for its richness and finesse, and dishes like ‘Kormas’ carry the delicateness of the Mughlai flavours. ‘Adlay Chaap’ was spicier than most Mughlai dishes I have tried, and it’s because of the excellent quality of Rajasthani chillies that goes into it. The natives of Rajasthan prefer spicy food; hence the Mughlai dishes of Jaipur cater to the demands of the local palate.
The ‘White Korma’ is unique, creamier and milder than the other Mughlai dishes and the most-loved dish served at Muhammadi palace; the ‘White Korma’ is the favourite of foreigners visiting Muhammadi Palace. It will take a few trips to this legendary Jaipur restaurant to get a complete understanding of the cuisine it offers; however, going by the dishes I tried and listening to the raving reviews of fellow diners; I can safely recommend you to try Muhammadi Palace on your next visit to Jaipur.
Sidharth Bhan Gupta is a Hospitality/F&B Consultant travelling across India exploring regional cuisines.
