In a state where Christians form almost 19% of the population, it comes as no surprise that the denizens of Kerala take their Easter celebrations seriously. From processions and fasting to rituals like the Lord’s Supper and the Rite of the Paschal Bread, there’s much that makes up the Malabar Easter. Although Easter is celebrated by all the Christians across the world following a forty-day fast meant to commemorate the crucifixion and resurrection of Jesus, every region has its own set of traditions and practices with regard to the festival. The largest variations are often with respect to culinary traditions that surround the holy days that follow Lent, or the great fast.
The history of Christianity in Kerala dates back to 52 CE, when Saint Thomas established the Syro-Malabar Church. All Christians in the state may partake in Lenten practices and holy week celebrations, although some sects of Syrian Christians may follow the religious commands that surround these practices to a higher degree of biblical accuracy. The Holy Week is observed during the last stretch of Lent, during which Christians spend time in intense prayer and abstain from consuming non-vegetarian food and alcohol.
Holy Week celebrations start with Palm Sunday, which features special prayers and the blessing of Palm Leaves, following which the leaves are handed out to members of the parish.
Maundy Thursday commemorates the Last Supper of Jesus. Church service is conducted in the evening, followed by familial celebrations. The feast of Maundy Thursday sees the preparation of several items that are specific to Syro-Malabar fare. Tradition mandates that the whole house be thoroughly cleaned before preparations begin. Some of the items prepared include:
1. Pesaha Appam or Kurishappam (unleavened bread): This dish is only ever prepared on Maundy Thursday. The dish is made with a paste of rice and urad dal, flavored with additions like cumin seeds, shallots, salt, and grated coconut. Unlike regular appam batter, the Kurishappam batter is not subject to fermentation; it is cooked in a steamer soon after it is mixed. Before the batter is lowered into the steamer, it is garnished with two segments of blessed palm leaf that are arranged in the shape of a cross. This dish is considered holy.
2. Indri Appam: A preparation made using the batter that is left over from making the Kurishappam. The dish is cooked in a steamer in molds made using banana leaves.
3. Pesaha Paal: A beverage made by boiling coconut milk with jaggery, cumin seeds, cardamom, dried ginger powder, and salt. A cross fashioned out of palm leaves is added to the mixture before it is boiled to bless the beverage. This beverage is considered holy.
4. Vattayappam: A steamed rice cake that has a slight sweetness and is made with fermented rice batter. The dish features the addition of cashews and raisins.
After the dishes are prepared, the oldest person in the family cuts the Pesaha Appam after saying a short prayer, following which members of the family are served a piece of the dish with a glass of Pesaha Paal. This commemorates the establishment of the Holy Sacrament and the body and blood of Jesus Christ. Other preparations are consumed after this ceremony, often accompanied with bananas. If the head of the family has siblings, the ceremony is first conducted at the eldest sibling's house, after which it may be repeated at others' houses, provided that they are in the vicinity. This practice may also apply to a community, where members may opt to congregate in one house for the ceremony.
Kurishappam and Pesaha Pal are never to be disposed of in the trash; they may be stored for the next day or destroyed via incineration.
Good Friday sees most Christians gather in churches for special prayers and to observe the way of the cross. This is considered a day of fasting, with Syrian Christians opting to break the fast with lunch rather than dinner. The lunch consists of simple vegetarian dishes, namely kanji (rice porridge), Vanpayar thoran (parboiled red cowpeas stir-fried with grated coconut and spices), papad, and pickle. The meal is ideally served in a manchatti (earthen bowl).
Easter celebrations start after the Easter Vigil Mass, which is held on Saturday night or in the early morning of Easter Sunday. Since the celebration of Easter is after 45 days of lent and abstinence from non-vegetarian food and alcohol, the fare served during this day features these items extensively. Most Malabar Christians prioritize just breakfast and lunch, having regular fare or leftovers for dinner.
Breakfast on Easter Sunday begins with a non-vegetarian starter, often served with homemade wine. The main dish for breakfast is usually appam or pidi (a rice dumpling) served with either a chicken curry or stew. Beef roast and duck may be prepared in some subregions. Plum cake is usually served for dessert.
Traditionally, Easter lunch consists of rice with several non-vegetarian preparations, such as fish, beef, pork, and chicken curries. Some families might choose to dine out and have a continental spread instead. Regardless of the location and fare, the joke goes that copious amounts of alcohol are a must to end the meal; any alcoholic beverage may be served, ranging from light beers to hard spirits such as rum or whisky.
