Decoding Kashmiri Wazwan: The Flavours Of 36 Dishes On A Plate
Image Credit: Kashmiriyat

A well plated meal is always a delight and the best thing in India the concept of thali has been there for ages. A thali basically sees a variety of dishes that has been plated well and served. One such plate that always been delight and delicacy to have is the Kashmiri Wazwan. For the un-initiated simplifying what a wazwan is that it’s a lavish spread of dishes that sees both Veg and Non-veg variety. The whole spread consists of 36 courses that includes variety of meat dishes and vegetarian fare too.  The flavours, aroma, taste and texture make Wazwan a delicacy in real sense. 

Going back to see how and Wazwan originated let’s understand how the whole spread got it’s name. Wazwan is derived form two words- waz’a and waan (‘Waz’ meaning Cook and ‘Wan’ meaning shop). Wazwan sees it’s roots in Central Asian countries that was known to serve feast meal that saw a huge spread of meat-based dishes. Going by the books it’s seen that Wazwan came to India in the 14th century with Timur. During this a lot of migration of craftsman too happened who were qualified in architecture, wood work and even cooking. They migrated from Samarkand to Kashmir and slowly the cooks were called Wazas and hence the birth of Wazwan. 

If you dig deeper, you will see that Kashmiri wazwan sees a lot of cultural influence, that is seen in the food that’s cooked. This important part of Kashmiri culture, Wazwan is known for dishes made with lamb, vegetables and also fruits. The meat products of this meal are, rogan josh, nate-yakhni, rista, kabab, tabak maaz, aab gosh and more. Al the meat dishes are distinct from the other and so is their cooking technique.  The knowledge and information about the local taste preferences, history and cooking methods is passed down to generations.  

Wazwan is not a meal, it’s a celebration of sorts and yes this meal also sees a particular serving technique. Wazwan is served on a copper thali called Trammi and this plate is a sharing plate where four people at least sit together and share the meal. cooking of the whole 36 dishes is an art and work of patience as the each dish needs the special attention of the waza. 

Wazwan is not a meal, it’s a celebration of sorts and yes this meal also sees a particular serving technique. Wazwan is served on a copper thali called Trammi and this plate is a sharing plate where four people at least sit together and share the meal. cooking of the whole 36 dishes is an art and work of patience as the each dish needs the special attention of the waza. Cooked in copper vessel on woodfire, this royal feast is the red in color of the dishes comes from either the Kashmiri chilies or Cockscomb flower called Mawal. As a custom people wash their hands before eating in Trash Naer another copper vessel for hand wash and then the meal is served.  The serving order starts with Tabak Maaz, Methi Maaz, and the Seekh kebab and then to be followed by Rista, Rogan josh and more. These medium spices meat dishes are nothing less than a delicacy. In the middle of the feast, wazas come with the vegetarian fare that sees large chunks of Panner cooked in thick tomato gravy, haak saah and more. The meal ends with Gustaba, that's cooked in yogurt and pure ghee. 

Few families today have held on to the cooking and serving traditions of the Wazwan. This feast is an inevitable part of Kashmiri culture. So next time you visiting Kashmir, find your Wazwan trail and dig into this historic meal.