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It's difficult to maintain a nearly century-old culinary legacy in the centre of London, and Veeraswamy, the oldest Indian restaurant in the city, is demonstrating how delicate it can be. The famous Regent Street restaurant, which first opened in 1926 and has a Michelin star, is currently in danger of losing its location because of a disagreement over a lease renewal, but the British culinary community is making sure its voices are heard.
Image Credit: Veeraswamy
Leading chefs, such as Michel Roux, Raymond Blanc, and Cyrus Todiwala, have expressed support in an open letter published in The Times, calling on the Crown Estate, Victory House's landlord, to "act responsibly" and cautioning that turning the historic space into offices would be a significant loss for London's gourmand legacy, tourism, and reputation as a world-class dining destination. Before getting into details of the lease issue and the future of the restaurant, read how Veeraswamy has kept its 99-year legacy intact.
How Veeraswamy Changed The Face Of Indian Dining in London
Veeraswamy was founded on 21 April 1926, the same day the late Queen was born, opening its doors in Victory House by Edward Palmer, the great-grandson of Mughal princess Faiz-un-Nisa Begum and General William Palmer, who served as Warren Hastings' private and military secretary. His goal was to introduce Indian food to the British. Around 1896, after Edward had moved to learned, he began selling chutney, pickles and pastes under the name ‘Nizam’. This was a hit among the people around the city, and soon it was established as Veeraswamy, where dishes inspired by Edwards' life in India reigned supreme. It became a space where taste, tradition and memories were presented on a plate.
Image Credit: Veeraswamy
Prince Axel of Denmark, who visited in the 1920s, is credited with introducing the practice of enjoying a beer with Indian cuisine. As Mr Mathrani notes, the establishment has grown into a cultural institution and reflects Britain’s longstanding appreciation of India. Prince Axel even had a casket of Carlsberg beer shipped to Veeraswamy in London so that it could be served to him during his meals.
Also Read: 7 Must Visit Indian Restaurants In London
MP Sir William Steward purchased the eatery in 1934. In an effort to create the best Indian eating experience, he reportedly toured more than 200,000 kilometres around India and its adjacent countries in search of staff, recipes, and antiques. Veeraswamy became a frequent hangout for the world's elite under his leadership. Sir William Steward introduced the tandoor to London in the 50s, making it the first and only Indian restaurant to do so.
Image Credit: Veeraswamy
Visitors to Veeraswamy relished Appam and Chicken Stew all the time. And that’s not just it, the restaurant changed the way Indian cuisine was viewed by the world. From travelling across India to dig into the spice gardens to having a conversation on the art of cooking with chefs, the menu has left no stone unturned. Its specialities include Raj Kachori, Lobster Malabar Curry, Pineapple Curry, Chettinad potatoes, Roast Duck Vindaloo, Bori Chicken Biryani, Bengali Chor Chori, and Patiala Shahi Raan En Croute, a Welsh lamb shank slow-cooked for six hours, wrapped in puff pastry, and finished in a tandoor. The restaurant specialises in Hyderabadi, Mughal and Patiala cuisines enriched with saffron and rose. The team behind the dishes also customise the dishes according to the preferences of its guests, such as using British meats for traditional recipes like Goan Vindaloo or Creedy Carver Duck.
In the late 1960s, the restaurant was sold again, this time to the owner of the Rembrandt Hotel. Veeraswamy was purchased in 1996 by MW Eat's present owners, Namita Panjabi and Ranjit Mathrani. Veeraswamy has welcomed several notable guests throughout the years, including Winston Churchill, Queen Elizabeth II, and Jawaharlal Nehru, as well as Indira Gandhi, Charlie Chaplin, and Marlon Brando. The eatery provided catering for Queen Elizabeth II's event at Buckingham Palace in 2008. In 2017, it received a Michelin star, which it has kept ever since. What sets the food apart is the authenticity of the spices used in the dishes prepared. The spices are imported all the way from India, and it’s prepared by a team of professional chefs who are from the Indian subcontinent.
Image Credit: Veeraswamy
Why Is Veeraswamy Facing Closure?
The fight is over a 120 square feet of space from the Victory House's entrance, where the Indian restaurant is spread across four levels. The lease for the eatery expired in June 2024, and the Crown Estate claimed that because it had few options for performing a "comprehensive refurbishment" of Victory House, it had to remove the restaurant's entrance.
As shared by Mr Mathrani, MW Eat could ask for a 14-year lease renewal unless the landlord requires the space or the proposed renovations would have a significant impact on the restaurant. He also stated that Veeraswamy will stay open until a court hearing, which is anticipated to take place between March and June 2026. A representative for the Crown Estate mentioned that while maintaining this historic area of London, they have an obligation to create value for the country. To make the building more accessible, this entails modernising the offices and enhancing the entryway.
While the Crown Estate explained that they are conscious of how challenging the current situation is for Veeraswamy and have offered to assist the restaurant in finding new locations within their portfolio, they are also aware of the significant impact the establishment has had on Regent Street for many years.
Mr Mathrani also shared how they had presented the Crown Estate with a number of other ideas, but they were turned down. The 81-year-old restaurateur has requested a 2-year extension until they find a suitable space to relocate the restaurant to. He also shares, if this fails, the restaurant will have to shut down, resulting in multiple layoffs and a declining income for many. Foodies and historians alike are keeping a close eye on the legal case in hopes that the restaurant lives to share its heritage and legacy as it has been.
