Shillong, the capital of Meghalaya can offer the authentic taste of Khasi cuisine which is rich, varied and quite seasonal. Shillong’s local delicacies have a heavy focus on seasonality, be it the salads or the indigenous pickles, ferments and condiments. You can find some terrific street food, be it steamed momos, aloo-muri, chow or thukpa; you can also spot some hearty options that are commonly made across households in Shillong.
Tourists in Shillong tend to stick to meat delicacies and street food options which are crowd-pleasers. But the cuisine in Shillong goes beyond momos, sausages and noodles. If you’re headed to Shillong sometime soon, these are some local delicacies you should explore.
Jadoh
Jadoh is a traditional Khasi dish made of red rice and meat, usually pork or chicken, cooked with a medley of spices. What sets Jadoh apart is the inclusion of indigenous ingredients like black sesame seeds and turmeric, infusing the dish with a distinctive taste and colour. Some renditions of jadoh also use pork blood in the recipe. Often served during special occasions and festivals, Jadoh is one of the most popular dishes in Shillong.
Doh Neiiong
The Khasi black sesame pork curry is a must-try Khasi delicacy. This rich and hearty pork curry is prepared with black sesame seeds, which imparts a unique flavour to the dish and lends it a dark colour. The slow-cooked pork, infused with the earthy aroma of sesame, results in a flavourful and comforting curry. Doh Neiiong showcases the intricate use of local ingredients in Khasi cuisine and is often enjoyed with steamed rice or traditional rice cakes known as Putharo.
Putharo and Nakham Bitchi
Putharo is traditional rice cakes and Nakham Bitchi is a Garo-style fermented fish chutney. These steamed rice cakes are often paired with dry fish chutney made from fermented fish. The dish has some rich, complex flavours as the tanginess of Nakham Bitchi perfectly balances the subtle sweetness of Putharo, creating a combination that is both layered and delicious.
Big Momo
If you love momos, you will love big momos all the more; it’s a jumbo-sized knotted momo that is steamed just like regular momos. It features a vegetable medley of cabbages, carrots etc. They’re easily found in marketplaces, roadside stalls and momo joints and cost something between Rs 10-15. They’re usually flatter than regular momos and are usually served with a spicy sauce.
Kyat
This popular indigenous beverage is made from fermented rice; it has a mild alcoholic content and is known for its refreshing and slightly effervescent nature. Locals often enjoy Kyat during festivals and celebrations, making it an integral part of the cultural and culinary landscape of Shillong. Its unique flavour profile and the use of local ingredients make Kyat a big draw for tourists.
Doh Khleh
Doh Khleh is a Khasi-style minced meat salad that showcases the freshness of local produce and the culinary creativity of Shillong. Minced meat, often beef or pork, is combined with onions, green chillies, coriander, and lime juice to create a zesty and savoury salad. Some renditions of this dish are made with pig brains and some other usable pig organs.
Chow And Gravy
The Shillong Chow, also known as chow chow, is an unmissable treat. It’s slightly different from the regular noodles we find at street food spots. They are essentially thin egg noodles, which are fried in the wok. They tend to be less oily and less saucy. It is known for its spicy flavour profile, thanks to a fiery kick of red chillies and its umami quality thanks to the ginger and soy sauce. It’s often served with a lightly starchy gravy and a side of momos.