AN INDIAN MEAL consists principally of rice or roti with a little meat sometimes (if non-vegetarian), plus one root vegetable, one other vegetable, lentils, meaning dal, and usually a small serving of yoghurt. So Indian eating consists of combining a variety of foods. The two vegetables and the dal are put on the heat one by one so that they will be ready around the same time, so as to save time spent in the kitchen.
Traditional meals in Gujarat, Kerala and many other regions follow a pattern of combining vegetables grown under the ground with those vegetables that see the sun. Root vegetables in Gujarat may be potatoes or colocasia, in Kerala, they may be yams or tapioca, in Punjab, they could be turnips. The combinations also incorporate a leafy green in some way: a leafy green cooked along with another vegetable or by itself, or green chutney made with fresh coriander and mint leaves. There is sometimes the sulphur-rich raw onion cachumber, infused with lime juice, on the side.
In the book, I have grouped the vegetables by the way they are grown: those that grow under the ground and don’t see the sun, those on the ground (though some see more sunlight than others because their own leaves cover them, e.g. cauliflower), those grown on shrubs and vines (some get filtered sunlight), those that grow in water and those that grow on trees. This way, one can be conscious of combining vegetables that get the sun and those that don’t. Many root vegetables, such as potatoes, can be combined with a sun-kissed vegetable – with cabbage, cauliflower, aubergine or capsicums; and sweet potatoes can be cooked with leafy greens, as can potatoes. So if you are making just one dish, this combination can be achieved. The curries in this book combine several vegetables in this way, too.
Vegetables grown under water | LOTUS STEMS & SEEDS
The pink lotus is the national flower of India and is considered sacred. It grows in ponds or flooded fields and requires a nutrient-rich soil. It is a tall plant, with rhizome roots in the soil, leaves – which are water-resistant because they are wax-coated – on the water surface, and flowers and buds above the water.
In Indian culture, the lotus is very significant – it symbolises the purity of the soul as a thing of beauty rising above the muddy waters, and figures of divinity such as the god Vishnu and the goddesses Lakshmi (wealth and prosperity) and Saraswati (knowledge and culture) are shown as either holding or sitting on a lotus. In Buddhism, the lotus has a special significance similar to Hindu culture, as Buddha is sometimes depicted sitting on a lotus.
The lotus is mentioned in the Bhagavad Gita, and in Yogic thought, when chakras are depicted in the human body, the highest chakra of enlightenment, which is in the head, is depicted as a flowering lotus.
The flower comes in various colours – white, yellow, pink, red and purple. The difference between the lotus and the water lily is that while the latter flower floats on the water, the lotus rises above it. The lotus, though growing in muddy water, rises up way above it and blossoms as a clean flower – it symbolises for Hindus and Buddhists that though a human being lives in a messy environment, full of attachment, desire and greed, it is possible to rise above this and seek purity and enlightenment.
The cultivation of lotus along with Buddhism spread to all parts of Asia, including China, Japan, Indonesia, Thailand, Sri Lanka and Vietnam, and it is the national flower of Vietnam.
Lotus stems are high in calcium and phosphorus, and they have small amounts of iron, vitamin B1 (thiamine) and vitamin B2 (riboflavin).
Lotus seeds, popped out from the seed pods, are peeled and eaten raw. They are rich in phosphorus and calcium.
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POPPED LOTUS SEEDS in CASHEW SAUCE | Kaju makhana
Popped lotus seeds have recently become popular in India, since being promoted as an almost no-calorie healthy ingredient. There doesn’t seem to be much familiarity among home cooks with how to cook them yet, but they have begun to appear on a few restaurant menus.
In Mumbai, a rich curry made with cashew nuts or almonds is sometimes served at dinner parties as part of a large buffet, prepared by speciality cooks. But it’s not difficult to prepare at home. A small quantity per person will suffice because of its richness. oil of your choice, for deep-frying.
Ingredients:
25g popped lotus seeds (makhanas)
1⁄2 teaspoon red chilli powder
70g green peppers, finely diced
2 cassia leaves or bay leaves
5cm cinnamon or cassia
5 green cardamoms
6 peppercorns
1⁄2 teaspoon cumin seeds
50g onions, finely chopped
1 heaped tablespoon chopped garlic
1 tablespoon chopped ginger
2 teaspoons chopped green chillies
150g cashew paste/cashew butter
2 teaspoons cornflour
75g full-fat yoghurt, whipped
1⁄2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
1⁄4 teaspoon ground cardamom
1 level tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon chopped coriander leaves
Method:
Heat the oil in a deep non-stick frying pan, and when very hot, add the lotus seeds and fry for about 10–11 minutes. Remove the seeds from the oil and set aside on kitchen paper. Keep the oil, as you will need it for more frying.
Put 2 tablespoons of the oil into a ladle, or a tiny pan, then add the chilli powder and fry over the heat for 5–7 seconds. Set this oil aside for garnishing.
Put a little more of the oil into the same ladle or tiny pan and fry the peppers for 2 minutes, then set aside. They will be bright green in colour.
Heat 75ml of oil in the non-stick frying pan, then add the following ingredients and sauté in this order, one following the other – cassia leaves, cinnamon, green cardamoms, peppercorns, cumin seeds, chopped onions, garlic, ginger and green chillies. Sauté for 5 minutes. The onions should soften but should not turn brown.
Add the cashew paste and sauté for 2 minutes. Mix the cornflour into the whipped yoghurt and add to the pan, taking the pan off the heat while you do so.
Return the pan to the heat, add 175ml of water, the salt, sugar, ground cardamom and butter, and cook for 2 minutes. Taste for seasoning, adding more salt if you like.
Now stir in the fried green peppers and lotus seeds and simmer for a couple of minutes.
To serve, reheat if necessary, then put into a serving dish and sprinkle with the chilli oil and the chopped coriander.
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LOTUS STEM STIR-FRY | Kamal kakdi fry
This is a popular dish in Kashmir, where lotus stems are in plentiful supply. They have to be washed really well, and sliced diagonally, as thinly as you can manage. The rest is easy. If you use stems grown in Thailand, these are much bigger and really tender; you can slice them straight and thin. Thailand also produces pre-sliced lotus stems in tins.
Ingredients:
300g whole fresh lotus root stems (or tinned sliced stems)
2 tablespoons cornflour
500ml oil of your choice, for deep-frying
1⁄2 teaspoon cumin seeds
11⁄2 teaspoons finely chopped garlic
1⁄2 teaspoon finely chopped ginger
1 teaspoon very finely chopped green chilli
1⁄4 teaspoon ground turmeric
1⁄2 teaspoon ground coriander
2 teaspoons honey
1⁄2 teaspoon cider (or similar mild) vinegar
1⁄4 level teaspoon salt
1⁄2 teaspoon lime juice
1 tablespoon chopped coriander leaves (for garnish, optional)
Method:
If using fresh lotus root stems, wash them thoroughly, as they will have come from muddy waters. Then peel them and cut them into thin slices diagonally. Wash them again and wipe them clean. Dust with cornflour and spread it over the stems with your clean fingers.
Heat the oil in a deep frying pan or kadai (or a wok) on a medium heat and when very hot, fry the sliced stems, turning them over so that they don’t stick to the pan or to each other. After 7 minutes, remove them with a perforated spoon and spread them on kitchen paper. They should be 90% cooked by now.
Pour out most of the oil into a cup or a wide-mouthed small jug and put to one side, leaving a little in the pan for stir-frying. You can use the excess oil for other dishes.
When you are ready to stir-fry, heat the oil remaining in the frying pan and when very hot, add the cumin seeds and fry for 10 seconds. Add the chopped garlic and fry for 1 minute, then add the chopped ginger and green chilli, stirring continuously for another minute.
Mix the spices with the honey, vinegar and a little water and add this to the pan with the salt. Stir for 10 seconds, then add the lotus root stems and stir-fry until tender. Sprinkle over the lime juice and toss well. Add the coriander leaves, if using, stir, and serve.
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The above text has been excerpted in parts from Camellia Panjabi's book Vegetables: The Indian Way, with due permission of the publisher, Penguin Random House.