
Bengalis love eggplants—known affectionately as 'Begun'—with a passion that borders on obsession. In a Bengali kitchen, eggplant turns out to be a staple comfort food, a classic appetiser, and a mandatory component of festive meals. Whether it is the large, purple, meaty varieties preferred for their texture or the smaller, seedy ones used in rustic stews, the eggplant is indispensable.
Interestingly, the type of brinjal available changes with the seasons; winter brinjals are often prized for being sweeter, firmer, and having fewer seeds compared to the varieties found throughout the rest of the year. Begun Pora, begun Bharta, Begun tel, Begun Bahar, Neem begun, Begun bhaja, or Begun Er Raita, You just can’t take eggplants out of a Bengali menu.
This love for Begun is also a lens through which one can view the historic culinary divide between Bangals (those with roots in East Bengal, now Bangladesh) and Ghotis (native to West Bengal). The Bangals boast of a vibrant cuisine born from an abundance of fresh water and vegetables, while Ghotis are often teased for a supposedly simpler diet of daal and posto. Yet, both sides unite in their reverence for the eggplant.
In this exploration, five renowned Bengali chefs share their heirloom and signature recipes, learned from family and friends, and present the rare and sophisticated ways this vegetable is celebrated in the Bengali kitchen. Often, a bowl of puffed rice with mustard oil, chilli and fried eggplant or Beguni, holds a special place in Bengalis’ hearts.
To explore more about Bengal's botanical "jewel," Slurrp brings together five culinary experts who delve deep into the heritage of the humble eggplant. This very own Brinjal narrative holds the stories from Chef Samita Halder, Sayani Sengupta, Amrita Roy, Jayeeta Ghosh and Joyadrita Ragavendran Chatterjee.
Chef Samita Halder Speaks About The Types of Brinjals In Bengal
Chef Samita Halder is a leading mind behind the idea of reviving the heritage of undivided Bengal. Known for using seasonal ingredients, she has hosted successful pop-ups at five-star hotels and earned the prestigious IFBA Award for her regional expertise. Beyond her culinary artistry, Samita is a passionate advocate for education, helping underprivileged children return to school.
Bengal is known for its wide and beautiful variety of brinjals (eggplants), each with a distinct shape, colour, and culinary use.
From the large, deep purple Badi Begun used for smoky bhartas to the slender Lamba Begun favoured for daily fries, each variety serves a specific purpose. She notes unique types like the creamy Shada Begun, the sweet striped Dhone Begun, and the rustic, spiny Kanta Begun. Most notably, she crowns the green Bighor-er Begun as the "king of brinjals," prized for its unparalleled texture when paired with fragrant North Bengal rice.
"Bighor-er Begun, a renowned brinjal variety from North Bengal and the adjoining regions, is often called the king of brinjals. Large in size and green in colour, it is prized for its texture and flavour. It pairs beautifully with fragrant Tulaipanji rice and is especially loved when prepared as simple begun bhaja," Chef Samita Halder shared.
Sayani Sengupta, Culinary Consultant, Home Chef And Owner Of Gooseberri
Sayani Sengupta, a culinary consultant, home chef, and owner of Gooseberri. Based in Kolkata, Sayani runs her own food brand and is a frequent contributor to Bengali magazines. She bridges the gap between historical cookbooks and modern kitchens, reviving complex dishes like Beguner Polao.
Beguner Polao
Have you really ever imagined trying a Bengali pulao with eggplants? Probably, never. “This recipe and technique inspirations are taken from Author Bipradas Mukhopadhyay's cookbook Pak Pranali. However, certain changes were made during the process of cooking, in the measurement of ingredients as well as techniques to make it relevant to current times,” Home Chef Sayani Sengupta shares.
Ingredients:
- Seasonal Slender Purple Brinjal (medium-sized): 500 grams
- Mutton: 500 grams
- Radhatilak / any small-grained aromatic rice: 500 grams
- Ghee: 200 ml
- Lemon: 1
- Ginger, pounded : 3 teaspoons
- Nigella seeds: ½ teaspoon
- Bay Leaf: 6
- Saffron: ¼ teaspoon
- Clove: 14
- Cardamom & Cinnamon powder: 2 teaspoons
- Black pepper powder: 2 teaspoons
- Coriander powder: 1 teaspoon
- Salt: to taste
For Yakhni:
- Cumin seeds: ½ teaspoon
- Coriander seeds: 1 teaspoon
- Black peppercorns: 1 teaspoon
- Black cardamom: 1
- Green cardamom: 5
- Shahjeera / caraway seeds: 1 teaspoon
- White peppercorn: 1 teaspoon
- Ginger, roughly chopped: 3 teaspoons
- Thick cotton thread: small bundle
- A Clean Cheesecloth: To make spice bag
A Step-by Step Guide
1. Put the spices mentioned under yakhni in the cheesecloth and fasten tightly with the thread
2. Put water, mutton, 2 teaspoons salt, and spice bag inthe pressure cooker and cook for 2 to 3 whistles. The quality of mutton is important here
3. Separate the mutton pieces and yakhni broth and keep aside
4. Next, you will need some time to debone half the mutton and mince or shred finely
5. Put 2 tablespoons of ghee in a kadhai and temper with cloves. Put in the minced/shredded mutton, ginger, coriander powder, saffron, cinnamon, cardamom powder, black pepper powder, and saute on medium heat till the mince is well fried and aromatic. Keep aside
6. Wash the brinjals and carefully make vertical, long slit at the centre. The tips of the brinjals should be joined. With a sharp thin knife, you need to scoop out the pulp from the centre and make a hollow space on both the sides.
7. Marinate the brinjals with salt and stuff the hollow spaces with the fried minced mutton.
8. Carefully and tightly tie each brinjal vertically as well as horizontally with the cotton thread
9. In a kadhai, temper ghee with cloves. Fry each brinjal on a slow flame, covered in the kadhai. Carefully turn the sides. Make sure each side of the brinjals is cooked through. Sprinkle some lemon juice on the fried brinjals and keep aside
10. Wash rice and drain out the water. In a thick pan, heat ghee and temper with nigella seeds, clove, and bay leaves. Put the drained rice, pounded ginger, cinnamon, cardamom powder, black pepper powder, and fry on low heat till the grains start looking translucent
11. Re-heat the yakhni stock and pour the same into the rice. The level of stock should not be more than 1 inch above the rice level. Adjust salt and cover with a tight lid, and cook till the grains are mostly cooked, roughly 80 percent.
12. Place the stuffed fried brinjals and mutton pieces on top of the rice. Cover again and let the rice cook in the dum till done. Serve hot with mutton pieces and stuffed brinjals on top of polao
Aam Tel Begun
Aam Tel Begun has been one of the cosiest dishes Sayani prepares in her kitchen. “I cook for a living but some days cooking without any deadline to meet, just recharges my soul. One of those days. The sweetness of the tender seasonal brinjals, just shine through this preparation,” she shared.
Ingredients:
- Seasonal Slender Purple Brinjal (medium-sized): 2
- Aam Tel (Raw Mango brined in mustard oil): 4 teaspoons with 2 mango pieces
- Panch Phoron: ¼ teaspoon
- Green Chillies (split in half): 2
- Turmeric Powder: ¼ th teaspoon
- Mustard Oil: 2 teaspoons
- Water: ½ cup
- Fresh coriander leaves (chopped): 1 tablespoon
- Salt to taste
Step-By-Step Guide To Prepare Aam Tel Begun
1. Wash and cut the brinjals into medium chunks.
2.Chop the mango pieces in half or keep as is if desired.
3. Heat mustard oil in a kadhai and temper with panch phoron. Once it starts to splutter, put in the chopped brinjal, green chillies, turmeric powder, and saute on medium heat for a minute.
4. Add salt to taste and water. Cover and cook till the brinjals are 80 percent done.
5. Open the lid, add the Aam Tel and chopped mango pieces and take time to mix well.
6. Cook uncovered till most of the water dries up and oil comes to the surface.
7. Add the chopped coriander leaves, mix, and serve with steamed rice.
Amrita Roy, Home Chef And Owner Of Bhoj ON
Amrita Roy, a Culinary artist, grew up in a Bengali home filled with traditional aromas. After 33 years of home cooking, her passion for diverse cuisines only grew stronger. Five years ago, she turned this lifelong love into a professional career. Today, she shares her heritage recipes through Bhoj ON, her successful cloud kitchen and catering service, where she transforms nostalgic family flavours into professional culinary delights.
Amrita talked about those days when she used to dislike certain vegetables like Brinjal, Beetroot, spinach, and Gourd.
She fondly remembers, "Our small yet cosy kitchen was so much more than a place to cook; it was like a mini laboratory for culinary experiments. My Maa, Didu (Paternal grandmother), and Dida (Maternal grandmother), instead of compelling me to consume those vegetables in a traditional manner, infused some unusual spices and ingredients to make them more delectable. With time few such recipes were passed down in our family."
She shared two of her favourite Brinjal recipes that are incomparably delicious.
Keema Begun er Por Bhaja
Keema Begun er Por Bhaja features thick brinjal rounds stuffed with a savoury, spiced mutton mince filling. Dipped in a crisp gram flour and rice flour batter, the slices are shallow-fried until golden. The delicious contrast between the tender, meaty interior and the crunchy exterior makes it an ideal snack or side.
Ingredients:
- Brinjal: 2 medium-sized brinjals
- Mutton Keema (Minced Meat): 250g (fine mince is best)
- Oil: For shallow frying ( preferably mustard oil)
- Salt: To taste
- Onions: 2 medium, finely chopped Ginger-Garlic Paste: 2 tbsp
- Tomato : 1 medium, finely chopped Green Chillies: 2, chopped
- Turmeric Powder: 1tsp
- Red Chilli Powder: 1 tsp
- Coriander Powder: 1 tsp
- Garam Masala Powder: 1 tsp
- Coriander Leaves: 1/4 cup, chopped
- Gramflour/ Besan - 1/2 cup
- Rice Flour - 2 tbsp
Prepare the Keema Stuffing:
- Heat 2 tbsp of oil in a pan.
- Add chopped onions and saute until golden brown.
- Add ginger-garlic paste and green chillies, saute until the raw smell disappears.
- Add the mutton keema and cook on high heat for 5-7 minutes until it turns brown and the moisture evaporates
- Add turmeric powder, red chilli powder, coriander powder, and salt. Mix well.
- Add the chopped tomatoes, cover, and cook until the keema is tender and the oil separates.
- Add garam masala and chopped coriander leaves.
- Mix well and let the filling cool down completely.
- Wash and pat dry the brinjals. You need to cut into 2inch thick round pieces.
- Marinate the pieces with salt and Turmeric for 10 minutes.
- Slit each piece horizontally upto half.
Stuffing and Frying:
- Take each brinjal piece and stuff the cooked Mutton Keema carefully through the slit.
- In a big bowl, take gramflour/ besan, rice flour, and salt
- Add water slowly and make a thick batter
- Heat a frying pan
- Add oil ( shallow fry)
- Dip each stuffed brinjal into the batter and place on the frying pan
- Fry two sides on medium flame until it become golden brown and crispy
- Finally, you can serve this Keema Begun er Por Bhaja with hot steamed rice and dal, or you can also serve it as snacks also.
Begun Kankra Pithali
Begun Kankra Pithali is a one-of-a-kind seafood delicacy any Bengali would think of. With succulent crabs and fried brinjal chunks following an aromatic gravy, this dish features coarsely ground Gobindobhog rice. As a cherry on top, further this dish gets the magical touch of Bengali garam masala and green chillies.
Ingredients
- Crabs: 4-5 medium (cleaned, deshelled)
- Brinjal: 1 medium
- Mustard Oil: 4-5 tbsp
- Gobindobhog Rice: 2tbsp ( coarsely ground)
- Onion: 1 large (finely chopped or paste)
- Ginger Paste: 1 tbsp
- Garlic Paste: 1 tbsp
- Tomato: 1 medium (chopped or paste)
- Green Chillies: 3-4 (slit)
- Dry Red Chillies: 2
- Turmeric Powder: 1 tsp
- Red Chilli Powder: 1 tsp
- Cumin Powder: 1 tsp
- Bengali Garam Masala - 1 tsp
- Salt & Sugar: To taste
Method
- Clean the crabs thoroughly, remove the top shell, and crack the hard claws.
- Marinate with 1/2 tsp salt and 1/2 tsp turmeric powder.
- Heat 2 tbsp mustard oil in a wok.
- Fry the brinjal chunks until lightly browned.
- Set aside. In the same oil, add the marinated crabs and stir-fry for 2-3 minutes until they turn orange/red. Set aside.
- Add more mustard oil if necessary. Add dry red chillies, chopped onion/onion paste. Fry until it turns golden brown.
- Add ginger and garlic paste, cook until the raw smell disappears. Add turmeric, red chilli powder, and cumin powder.
- Saute the masala until the oil separates from the edges. Add the chopped tomatoes, a little sugar, and salt. Cook until the tomatoes become mushy and fully incorporate into the spice mixture.
- Add the fried crabs and fried brinjals to the masala. Stir well for 2-3 minutes to coat everything. Mix the coarsely ground rice in 1-1.5 cups of water, depending on how thick you want the gravy.
- Cover and simmer on low heat for 10 minutes or until the brinjals and crabs are fully cooked.
- Add slitted green chillies and Bengali garam masala powder. Stir gently and let it rest for 5 minutes before serving with piping hot rice.
Jayeeta Ghosh, Home Chef, Owner at Haarir Khobor
Jayeeta Ghosh is a home chef and culinary entrepreneur from West Bengal, successfully running her kitchen venture Haarir Khobor. She draws inspiration from her Bengali roots, family traditions, and her travels. She believes by heart that every journey she takes up, it opens doors to new flavours, aromas, and stories.
"This recipe came to me through my friend Sohini, who fondly calls it Doodh Begun. I was taken aback how something so simple could taste so unexpectedly beautiful," Jayeeta shared.
Jayeeta found the original name didn't quite capture the dish's calm elegance. To honour the friend who introduced her to this minimalist masterpiece, she renamed it Begun Sohini, a signature dish holding the most profound flavours.
“No long ingredient list or elaborate techniques, this dish invites minimalism. It’s a dish built on just two ingredients—eggplant and milk—and a cooking time of under ten minutes. It doesn't shout; it whispers, staying with you long after the meal is over," Jayeeta adds.
Begun Sohini (Eggplant In Milk Sauce)
Begun Sohini is a quietly luxurious vegetarian dish built on just two easy-to-get ingredients—eggplant and milk. The clever use of hing (asafoetida) brings in the aroma without relying on heavy spices. With almost no masala and a cooking time of under 10 minutes, this dish proves to be profoundly delicious. You can try it with Indian breads, though it pairs beautifully with plain rice for those days you are on a vegetarian day.
Ingredients
- Eggplants (small brinjals), slit – as required
- Mustard oil – 1 tablespoon
- Hing (asafoetida) – 2 pinches
- Dry red chilli – 1
- Kashmiri red chilli powder – ½ teaspoon
- Turmeric powder – ½ teaspoon
- Salt – to taste
- Milk (warm) – 1 cup
- Sugar – 1 teaspoon
- Fresh coriander leaves, chopped – for garnish
- Malai – 1 teaspoon (optional, for garnish)
Method
- Heat 1 tablespoon mustard oil in a skillet.
- Add hing and a dry red chilli.
- Sprinkle in Kashmiri red chilli powder and turmeric.
- Add the slit eggplants, cover, and cook for 3–5 minutes on low–medium flame.
- Add salt, mix gently, and cover again.
- After 6–8 minutes, once the eggplants are soft and cooked through, pour in the warm milk and then you have to add a teaspoon of sugar.
- Cover and allow it to come to a gentle boil until the eggplants soak up the milk.
- Finish with chopped coriander leaves.
- Garnish with a touch of malai if using.
- Serve warm with Indian breads or plain rice—a gentle reminder that some dishes don’t shout; they whisper and stay with you.
Joyadrita Chatterjee, Bengali Home Chef Based In Chennai
Image Credit: Chef Joyadrita Chatterjee
Joyadrita Chatterjee is an ex-communication coach turned celebrated Bengali home chef. With 12 high-profile brand collaborations, including Novotel and ITC Windsor, she holds the influence of both Ghoti and Bangal traditions. Joyadrita uses her platform to share the rich stories and "zero-waste" culinary heritage of her extended joint family. "I was fortunate to have the influence of both Ghoti and Baangal roots, so variety was a given. While I love the mild sweetness of West Bengal vegetarian fare, I also relish the peppery flavours from erstwhile Bangladesh," she mentioned.
Growing up in the 80s, Joyadrita witnessed how her family’s widows transformed every part of a vegetable—from shoots to peels—into delicious "Baata" or "Bhaja," embodying a true nose-to-tail philosophy.
"Amongst all of this, 'Begun' (Brinjal) was a popular staple, often mocked as having 'no qualities (gun in Bengali),' yet it featured in everything from roasted Pora to bitter Neem Begun. Among other dishes, the flavour of 'Shutki' (dried fish) improved the taste of brinjal, and this very fact fascinates me every time. Without this, the curry never came together. My Maa’s Tel Shutki with brinjal remains a family favourite," Joyadrita mentioned.
Maa’s Tel Shutki With Eggplant
Ingredients:
- Brinjal - 1 large cut into thin strips
- Potatoes - 2 medium cut into wedges
- Onion - 3 large chopped finely
- Tomatoes - 2 large, chopped finely
- Ginger garlic paste-2tbsp
- Salt and sugar to taste
- Mustard oil - 1 small cup
- Turmeric powder - 1 tsp
- Red chilli powder - 1 tsp
- Kashmiri red chilli powder - 1 tsp
Method:
- Heat mustard oil in a wok. (As the dish is called Tel Shutki, make sure to add an extra portion of mustard oil than you usually would use.)
- Fry the cut brinjal and potatoes, and keep them aside.
- Next, pour some more mustard oil and take it to a smoking point, then add chopped onions, fry well until brown, add the tomatoes and fry until mushy.
- Then add in the Ginger garlic paste, fried vegetables and all the spices except salt and sugar. Fry everything well, then add in the dried fish (drain the water well).
- Adjust salt and sugar. Fry everything well until the oil separates.
- Add hot water for it to cook well. Once cooked and mushy, drizzle some more mustard oil. Serve with plain hot steamed rice.
From the refined, creamy whispers of Begun Sohini to the oil-drenched Tel Shutki, these eggplant recipes represent a cultural connection between the Ghoti and Bangal traditions. Through the eyes of these five talented chefs, the eggplant brings together history, family bonds, and culinary innovation.