For a city that one wouldn’t typically associate with exquisite Italian food, Ottimo Cucina Italiana in Chennai is a haven for avid connoisseurs. As an Italian saying goes, “Le mani degli chef sono come le mani dei santi” (The hands of the chef are like the hands of the saints) - holds true in the case of what is essentially chef Zubin Writer’s cumulative experience translating into innovation. As India’s only recipient of the Ospitalità Italiana seal in a little over a decade, two times over, the menu blends authentic Italian ingredients in collaboration with locally sourced seafood and vegetables. Plump bellied tortelli bursts at the seams with a stuffing of duck, glazed with a basil-parmesan butter, pine nuts and blanketed in thinly shaved Umbrian black truffles - only a small glimpse of what’s cooking (quite literally).
For someone who has been associated with Ottimo since its inception, Zubin’s experiments with luxe ingredients has been well-known. Walking into the space feels unassuming at first - an open kitchen that appears busy yet barely makes a ruckus. Within minutes of being seated at the kitchen table overlooking the centre of activity, a basket brimming with assorted breads, flavoured butters, an assortment of cheeses, fruit and olives find their way. Smoked scarmoza, chunks of parmesan, creamy goat cheese and blue cheese alongside marinated olives, prunes and dried apricots - the sweet, salty, pungent flavours offering a precursor to what is the first of many courses.
In-Line Photo Credits: Vijayaraghavan
Ottimo’s sommelier matches the chef’s enthusiasm by pouring multiple glasses of reds and whites to pair with the food, as petite potato nests cradle avocado battuta and soft-boiled quail eggs peeping from under a sprinkle of guanciale crumble for a savoury, creamy-crisp bite that is mellow yet pronounced. Opening up the menu with what was nothing short of an impressive plate, Zubin adds that, “Travelling through various regions of Italy was an enormous learning experience; it broadened my perception of ingredients, taste and culture. The food has steadily evolved over the years through the team’s research and development of dishes to cater to a universal flavour palate of diverse travellers (visiting) the restaurant.” He also mentions that patrons being well-travelled remaining a key factor to ensure that only the best of regional Italian cuisine is highlighted at Ottimo - similar to what one would tend to find while visiting restaurants within the European country.
Testament to this in the courses that follow - marinated burrata topped with a sour cherry glaze, toasted almonds and mesclun greens disintegrates on the palate to make way for clean, rounded off flavours; a welcome combination of soft, slightly chewy and crunchy textures. The next plate - one admittedly close to the chef’s heart - arrives with smoked salmon resting on a spear of white asparagus, a buttery glaze of parsley and pinot grigio, the freshest Oscietra caviar finished with a basil oil drizzle - elements that Zubin is no stranger to presenting with flair. Peppered in between courses were fun little surprises - one of which was a freshly made canape of chicken liver pâté spread thickly over toasted ciabatta and dusted with cocoa - meant to be eaten with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. For the pâté-averse like us, the bitter accent elevated a surprisingly mellow savouriness in what’s best described as a forged friendship of unusual elements.
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Zubin quips, “A meal at Ottimo is more than just pizzas and pastas; chef’s tasting menus, the occasional specials, a selection of Italian beverages and our Sunday brunch, apart from the a la carte, sets a benchmark for Italian food.” In succession, plates of scallop pizzaola topped with fresh pomodoro, stracciatela, capers and toasted pine nuts refute the sacrilegious myth of pairing seafood with cheese. Adjacent to this, the gratachecca-rubbed fried lamb brain with salsa verde offers juxtaposing textures, best described as a meaty nugget on steroids. Onto the warmer plates, the chef gambles with our tastebuds by bringing bowls of soup made with Jerusalem artichoke, a sphere of blue cheese and dark chocolate. Savoury pungency emphasises the purpose of why the sweetness is requisite, although Zubin candidly admits that it isn’t a plate that appeals across the board.
Much like the Italians' tendency to show-off how delicious the impact simple ingredients can be, the chef follows suit by exemplifying the effect of using salt in varying proportions - all encapsulated in a single bite of thinly shaved prosciutto parma sprinkled with pecorino romano cheese, balsamic reduction and a lone arugula leaf. Corroborating the parameters, the Ospitalità Italiana seal winner states what he thinks make a great Italian restaurant in his opinion. He believes that the quality of ingredients, simplistic cooking, familiar flavours and great Italian beverages become definitive pointers. In addition to this, if there’s anything to be said about the service, the attention to detail spills over from the chef to his wait staff - all of whom check in periodically without missing a beat to ensure the fun doesn’t fizzle long before the meal concludes. Zubin, who acknowledges that running a tight ship is what fuels his way of working in the kitchen, does not shy away from exchanging a few smiles himself, in-between plates.
As a deeper exploration of the meal ensues, wines transform magically into crisp, tequila-forward picantes upon request. While waxing eloquent about the courses, Zubin is quizzed about how he creates a balance between having fun with ingredients and what he finds challenging; to which he mentions, “Creating the caviar menu was one of the most challenging yet enjoyable experiences. Sourcing the delicacy and combining it with the right ingredients for desirable flavours was heartening and an immense learning experience.” Submission to his process seemed inevitable neck-deep into the experience at this point and confoundingly good - an understatement to what was brought to the table now. One - a braised lamb shank sitting on a bed of creamy polenta, Sicilian lemon gremolata finished with a glaze of white wine; and second - crisp-skinned black cod served over mashed potato, accompanied by carrot cream and a citrus emulsion.
If there is anything to be said about Zubin’s expertise with treating ingredients in a manner that doesn’t draw away from their character, the lamb and cod cooked just enough to fall apart upon the touch of the fork, attests to it. The supporting elements were seasoned just enough to bring a sense of comfort to what was an otherwise high-octane presentation - ideally meant to be ordered while commemorating a special occasion. In short, the plates put the ‘fine’ in fine dining backed by the familiarity of what are essentially traditional accompaniments.
To conclude the meal, the chef assembles a tiramisu - a dish he counts as his personal comfort food - coffee-soaked savoiardi biscuits, mascarpone cheese, a dusting of cocoa - along with his additional detail of espresso crisps for a welcome crunch in an otherwise linear dessert. Served alongside a shot of limoncello liqueur, it is suggested that the profile of the coffee-based sweet treat transforms entirely when preceded by a sip of the liqueur - a tip we’re glad to oblige and confirm to be effective. Although Ottimo Cucina feels high-handed at first, Zubin points that they’ve also welcomed diners who want nothing more than a portion of reliable pizza or pasta. However, visit the restaurant for a taste of compositions that are awe-inducing without the limitations of a formal setting. Free-wheeling conversations, great wine, food to match are all just as good enough!
Contact 044-22200000 for prior reservations at the restaurant. An average meal for two costs INR 7,000.