
In a city famed for its culinary diversity and relentless pursuit of the next big thing, a South Indian restaurant has achieved what few could have imagined. Making history, Semma by Chef Vijay Kumar marks the first time any Indian restaurant has topped the annual list of The New York Times Best Restaurants.
Hailing from Tamil Nadu, the journey of Chef Vijay Kumar is nothing short of inspiration. Making the most of his roots, regional recipes, and the ingrained hospitality, he has taken the regional cuisine of Southern India to the world stage.
Reports suggest that since its inception in 2021, getting a reservation at Semma has been difficult. The fine dining restaurant serves traditional South Indian cuisine in its truest form, without adjusting the flavours as per the American palate. Earning a Michelin star, the next year (in 2022), Semma rose above more than 20,000 restaurants in New York City.
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“New York is teeming with Indian restaurants. Yet before Semma, a deeply personal tribute to the chef Vijay Kumar’s upbringing in the South Indian state of Tamil Nadu, the city’s diners had never seen Indian food like this. Punctuated with chiles, coconut and earthy curry leaves, Semma’s flavours are lingering and loud, yet restrained. Its dosa is the best in the city: a crisp specimen that’s heady with fermentation and slicked with ghee and fiery gunpowder spice. Semma altered the course of Indian dining here, and four years on, Mr. Kumar’s food continues to feel fresh,” Priya Krishna, one of the curators for New York Times Best Restaurants 2025, writes about the winning restaurant and chef.
As for the menu, Semma has everything that could be taken from the local cuisine of Tamil Nadu. Some of the highlights include Nathai Pirattal (snail curry), Kudal Varuval (goat’s intestines), Thinai Khichdi (foxtail millet porridge), Eral Thokku (prawns in spicy tomato sauce) and of course, Crisp, fermented dosa with ghee and gunpowder spice, which is a crowd favourite.
Penning down an emotional note, Chef Vijay Kumar expresses gratitude in his latest Instagram post, “Semma being the #1 restaurant in New York City by the New York Times is proof that the landscape has actually shifted...This is unprecedented in so many ways. Semma isn’t just about Indian food, it’s about what happens when a cuisine, any cuisine, speaks in its own voice, untranslated and unafraid.
This win isn’t just ours. This is for every cuisine that’s been sidelined. For every chef who’s led with vulnerability instead of validation. And for every diner who’s shown up with an open mind. To be at the top of this list is a milestone for a significant change. For us, for you, and for what's to come. Thank you, New York, for believing in us. This would not have been possible anywhere else in the world.”