When the temperatures begin to rise and the summer heat makes waves in the quaint narrow lanes and maze-like gullies of Pune, locals instinctively turn to one drink that provides respite amidst the rising mercury: sweet, chilled sugarcane juice. And where one finds fresh sugarcane juice in the heritage Puneri town is at rasvanti gruhas, or the sugarcane juice centres that have been running for years in the city. Every neighbourhood in Puneri locales boasts of at least one very popular, always-crowded sugarcane thela where customers gather to quickly gulp down the humble, affordable and delicious juice that is an extricable part of the city’s food culture.
Rasvanti Gruhas And Rustic Charm
Loosely translated, rasvanti gruha means a juice house, which colloquially connotes a small space that sells just one fresh drink, a sweet and cold glass of sugarcane juice. At best, the rasvanti gruha might offer its patrons lemon sherbet or juice flavoured with ginger and mint. But the stalls run primarily to extract fresh juice out of tall canes, served in tall glass mugs. The juice is most often than not garnished with a salt sprinkle that brightens the sweetness of the cane.
In summers, Puneri rasvanti gruhas that have been running for decades in the old town and newer ones that continue to spring up in developing parts of the city, remain crowded for the fresh juice they offer as a quick respite against the rising heat. The rasvanti gruhas themselves are very simple spaces: just a few plastic chairs surround simple tables, where customers can rest for a few minutes as they finish up their juice. Still others choose the quicker alternative of purchasing the juice at the small stalls and having them on their mopeds or two-wheelers, a mode of transport that is so integral to the city’s fabric.
Essentially, the rasvanti gruhas are pit stops. Gulp down the juice as you shop in the old town or while returning home in the evening from work. The shops are etched into little nooks and crannies along roadsides where the jingle of the ghungroos hanging on the juice presser make a welcoming, lilting noise, almost ushering the thirsty, summer-worn patron inside.
Once there, you can choose different sizes of the juice glass, according to your preference on that day. Akin to the sizes in a fancy coffee shop but at a smidge of the price, the juice is available across jumbo, large and small portions. Customers also have the option to add ice or to simply have the juice by itself. Ice undoubtedly chills the drink yet some purists prefer the juice as it is, because this prevents the sweetness of the sugarcane from diluting too much.
Why Rasvanti Gruhas In Summer?
While rasvanti gruhas are now operational for the better part of the whole year, they witness a larger influx of on-the-go customers in summer. This is because sugarcane juice remains a favoured drink in warm weather for its hydrating and rejuvenating properties. The naturally sweet notes in the sugarcane juice also replenish lost energy, making you feel refreshed after spending too much time in the sun. Most of all, the chilled juice provides a cooling sensation as the temperatures peak during the intense summer months.
So, the next time you find yourself in the city, head over to one of these hole-in-the-wall places that churn fresh juice right in front of the customers and pour it into your glasses. Ask for a tall pint and watch it being extracted right in front of you, under the pressing machine. The rhythmic tinkle of the grinding machine and the aroma of fresh juice that permeates through the stall are all-too-familiar elements of the city’s food landscape, a bonafide street-side Puneri summer experience.