If someone offers you a ‘Gulab Jamun Ki Sabzi’ Or a ‘Rasmalai Ki Sabzi’, What would be your reaction? Probably, you may feel that the person has lost his senses. I had the same opinion about my friend Divyesh, a Jodhpur Local who proudly claimed these dishes would blow my mind.
The next day we were standing outside Vijay Restaurant at Katla Bazaar in Jodhpur. The dining hall, which could comfortably fit 25-30 people, was jam-packed. My olfactory senses were already convincing me that this restaurant was not something to laugh about; some serious food was being served here. The aroma of ghee-laden curries engulfed the dining room, and the craving had reached its maximum height.
We started our gustatory exploration with one portion of Gulab jamun. I was confused about whether to order bread with it or if it was simply a dessert (Which was my fear). Soon Mr Bharat Bhati, the restaurant owner, came to our table and explained the restaurant’s cuisine.
Vijay restaurant has been in the business for decades. Starting in 1975, the Bhati family is a pioneer in producing unique dishes that have brought fame to the vegetarian cuisine of Jodhpur. All the dishes here are prepared in ‘Desi Ghee’ and ‘Rabdi’. Rabdi is the lacchedaar (Stringy) thickened milk, which forms the base of all the restaurant's fantastic curries. Thus, no packaged cream or oil is used. Everything is fried in desi ghee, and dishes get a velvety texture from the ‘Lacchedaar Rabdi’.
Mr Bhati convinced us to try other dishes too. Although we planned to try only the ‘Gulab Jamun Sabzi’, he happily served us a combination of ‘Gulab Jamun’, ‘Malai Kofta’, and delicate pieces of ‘Paneer’ dipped in their famed gravy. Most diners were gobbling up the diametrically huge, crispy and doused in ghee laccha paratha; we also ordered a couple to satiate our taste buds.
‘Gulab jamuns’ were expected round-shaped fried balls made of ‘Paneer’ and ‘Khoya’, but instead of dipping it in sugar syrup, this iconic sabzi at Vijay restaurant was served with the spicy onion and tomato-based gravy. This sabzi was unlike anything I had tried before. Although the gulab jamuns carried a hint of sweetness from aromatic spices, the chillies used in the curry created a perfect balance, lending it the quintessential Rajasthani flavour.
Water is scarce in the state of Rajasthan. Thus, milk and milk products are used extensively in the cuisine. Usage of ‘Rabdi’ made all the difference; The texture was velvety, and hard to find anywhere else. The gravy reminded me of the authentic halwais, who base their gastronomical skills on top-quality ingredients, seldom worrying about the cost of production most hotels fret over. Being an old-school restaurant in the city, and despite its exemplary fame, the prices of dishes at Vijay restaurant were reasonable, with a portion of each plate costing less than 100 rupees. This was a pleasant surprise.
‘Laccha Parathas’ were just the right bread to blanket this velvety curry; the spicy and flavourful ‘Garlic Chutney’ was another highlight of the meal.
Our curiosity was heightened when we smelled a portion of rice dish being served to the table next to us. It looked like ‘vegetable biryani’, but we learned from Mr Bhati that it was a special rice dish called Kabuli. Kabuli is garnished with dry fruits, raisins, Potatoes, Yam, pieces of cottage cheese, and another speciality of Rajasthan, ‘Gatta’ (Made of Gram flour). Just by reading the ingredients that go into it, you can imagine how wonderful it would have tasted on our exploring palates. I thoroughly enjoyed the combination of flavours and mulls that I would not be able to eat once I leave Jodhpur in a couple of days for my next destination. Keeping this thought in mind, I did not mind overeating the dish.
For dessert, we had the Special ‘Prem Piyala’. It’s a unique creation by Bhaatis. ‘Prem Piyala’ means a cup of love, and it indeed was. The trio of Fruit Cream, Dry fruit cream and sweet ‘Rabdi’ were layered and served in a bowl, and we quickly guzzled the content of the bowl in seconds., We analysed the next bowl of ‘Prem Piyala’ we ordered —and were impressed by its preparation process.
The superior quality of milk gives it an exquisite taste. As Mr Bhati explained, “In Jodhpur, 99% people drink fresh milk, and are averse to packed or tetra pack milk, we get in the stores”. Every morning, huge milk tanks are parked at the Jalori Gate circle of Jodhpur, from where it gets dispensed to individual households.
Just as we discussed the superior quality of milk we get in Jodhpur; my eyes rested on the white rotis- lying on a plate inside the refrigerated dessert counter. ‘This is called Malai Roti’, Mr Bhati answered what my curious eyes had already communicated before I asked the question. The creamy top of the full-fat milk is collected and set into a roti-shaped dessert, sweetened and flavoured with Cardamom, raisins and saffron. What a delight it was to try the ‘Malai Roti’. ‘Melt in the mouth’, an overused expression, was fitting to describe this unique preparation. And once we were done with it, we understood why this restaurant and its cuisine were as popular as it is.
High-quality ingredients, cooking techniques, a sense of taste, and recipes perfected over decades, have created a perfect array of dishes which is nothing short of an art form.
The next day, Divyesh was adamant we must try ‘Shandaar restaurant’, A similarly themed restaurant run by Mr Bharat Bhati’s uncle. Serving a similar cuisine, Shandaar restaurant is equally famous amongst local food lovers., Impressed by the cuisine, I had eaten at Vijay restaurant; we were prepared for our visit to ‘Shandaar restaurant’. This time we convinced two other friends of ours, Anuj and Hashmath, for the culinary extravaganza. We ordered many dishes, including the ‘Rasmalai ki Sabzi’, similar to ’Ras Malai’, and the Dal fry, which Divyesh is an ardent fan of.
It was one of the most delicious ‘Dal fry’ preparations I have had, and I could enjoy the best flavours of it with the crisp ‘Tandoori Rotis’; the rest of the meal was a combination of ‘Paneer dishes’ and ‘Kabuli’. We ate to our heart’s content and thoroughly enjoyed the meal.
We were short of words to describe the experience of enjoying this delicious cuisine, spread over two dinners at two different restaurants. All we could muster at the end was our silent praise for Divyesh, who claimed ‘Gulab Jamun ki Sabzi’ would blow our minds. In my head, I vowed never to laugh off a local’s suggestion and felt glad I gave in to the insistence. And on that note, I ordered a ‘Prem Piyala’ and offered it as my token of appreciation to the man who introduced me to this cuisine. May God Bless Him, and May God Bless ‘The Bhatis’.