Chef Wayne Liew embarked on his culinary journey from humble beginnings, initially assuming the role of a Kitchen Assistant in 2004, the lowest rung of the kitchen hierarchy. His responsibilities encompassed fundamental kitchen practices, including maintaining hygiene and mise en place. Over the course of four years, he progressed to managing kitchen supplies and assisting the Head Chef, involving stock management and closely observing the cooking techniques. This apprenticeship process allowed him to grasp the 'what,' 'how,' and 'why' in the realm of Chinese cuisine. Beyond the kitchen, Wayne's passion for culinary exploration led him to delve into cookbooks, nurturing an eagerness to innovate and elevate the existing menu, marking a significant turning point in his career.
Here's a sneak peek into our in-depth conversation with Chef Wayne Liew, the culinary talent behind Singapore's Michelin Plate-awarded hawker stall, Keng Eng Kee Seafood.
Can you tell us about the journey from a hawker stall to a full-fledged restaurant creating Zi-Char cuisine and the cultural influences that have shaped it at KEK Seafood? How has your menu evolved from its origins as a hawker stall in 1975 to its current offerings, and what drove these changes in response to evolving tastes and culinary trends?
It all started with a small hawker stall at the former Havelock Road Hawker Centre in Singapore. Opened by our maternal grandparents, the legacy and passion passed on to our generation. We started from scratch, as apprentices would in the kitchen. We would clean the kitchen and the washrooms, and learn to take stock. Our parents didn’t want us to take over a business but to value its origins and appreciate our staff.
Our expectations were modest- just to keep the family business growing. While some dishes have survived the test of time, a lot has changed. Over the years we have been able to innovate our menu and develop dishes owing to the diverse community and evolving culinary practices in the city. For instance, our grandparents and parents had their signature dishes. These dishes evolved not just because of different ingredients in the market, but also due to a change in the diners’ palates. In my grandparents’ time, they preferred strong flavours, and dishes were oily, while in my parent’s time, they preferred lighter and subtler flavours. Today, diners want variety and complex flavours.
Zi-Char cuisine is a culinary hotpot of cultures. How do you balance the authenticity of Singaporean flavours with modern culinary trends? Can you highlight some of the unique Indo-Singaporean flavours and dishes that you have developed at KEK Seafood?
Derived from the local Hokkien dialect – cooking (煮) and frying (炒), zi char is a distinctive Singaporean dining term used to describe dishes that are inspired by home-cooked Chinese food that is meant for sharing. A community dining experience is not only a common cultural factor within South Asia but also offers an opportunity for countries to bond over a shared love for food. Moreover, we at KEK take culinary bonds a notch higher by sourcing from neighbouring countries. Since my grandparents’ time, we’ve been importing supplies: shrimps come from Vietnam while crabs arrive from India. We borrowed a lot from our friends from across the country to create what we call Singaporean cuisine.
In fact, Zi-Char & Singaporean food in general reflects a culmination of diverse cultures. Singapore is a young country but in terms of food, we are diverse and embrace different communities that settled in Singapore. It’s not just Chinese fare; there is Singapore-Chinese, with Malay ingredients, Indian flavours and even westernized flavours.
Over time, we also increased the spice quotient in our signature chilli crab. Our family version is sweet, sour-ish and mildly spicy, but we added some spice to cater changing palates of residents, diaspora and tourists in Singapore. During our visit to India, our crispy fish skin with some crusty and spicy notes was relished by the audience at Mag Street Kitchen. In addition, the family-style, community dinner experience resonated with the attendees.
Innovation plays a significant role in Asian culinary techniques. How do you incorporate innovation into your dishes while staying true to the roots of Singaporean cuisine? Singapore has become a hub for gastronomic excellence. How has the local food scene influenced and inspired the diverse range of culinary creations at KEK Seafood?
Singapore is a food heaven where people like to eat, get inspiration from the food they eat, learn and share time-treasured recipes with their family and friends. With its host of culinary delights spanning across street food stalls, Michelin-starred restaurants, and inventive fusion cuisine, the city celebrates diversity on every plate. This commitment to culinary innovation continually tantalizes taste buds and inspires us to add extraordinary items to our menu.
Over time, we've maintained our commitment to classic recipes and cooking methods while also embracing new ingredients to cater to the evolving tastes of both Singaporeans and tourists. Our most recent addition to the menu is the Coffee Pork Ribs, a departure from the usual culinary choices. We were excited to incorporate coffee into our dish, combining traditional marination techniques with a modern and innovative sauce.
Being the 3rd generation co-owner, how have your family's culinary traditions contributed to the restaurant's offerings and popularity? In your culinary journey, have there been any specific ingredients or techniques that you've found to be uniquely Singaporean and integral to your dishes?
We are a family-run business helmed by its third generation. The four-member team delivers a certain whiff of the Liew family’s heritage on every plate. In fact, our menu draws constant inspiration from our family’s culinary and cultural lineage. The dishes include claypot pig’s liver, a recipe by the siblings’ grandmother. We will also be serving moonlight hor fun, a wok stir-fried rice noodle dish with raw egg on top, which is our father’s speciality and Mingzhu rolls, a treasured recipe crafted by our mother, where tau fu poks (tofu puffs) are stuffed with salted egg yolk, prawns, ham, mushroom, and parsley.
Being recognized by the Michelin Guide is a remarkable achievement. What does it mean to you and your team, and how has it impacted your approach to food?
KEK made it to the Michelin Guide in 2016 and has retained its status ever since. Nonetheless, we do not let the accolades get the better of us. All Singapore restaurants were excited that Michelin was coming. We were a street food restaurant, so our expectations were tame. Obviously, now we know that good food always finds recognition. Nonetheless, we stuck to our usual routines; that worked for us.
KEK Seafood's signature dish, the Chili Crab, gained worldwide recognition through Netflix's "Street Food." Could you share the story behind this iconic dish and its cultural significance?
Our signature dish- the Chilli Crab, alike our menu is a reflection of our childhood. The three-layered dish represents how Asian cultures are similar: it represents several layers of complexities. Yet, at the end of it, when you put it in your mouth, the flavours.
Can you share some insights into the future of Singaporean cuisine, and how KEK Seafood is contributing to its evolution while preserving tradition?
While Singapore’s hawker culture has been thriving, it faces a challenge as few gen-next owners wish to take the family business forward. The long hours discourage newcomers from joining the industry. But there are also a few like us who share the passion. Newer generations can contribute beyond technology, they can bring fresh ideas into business management- and that is something to look forward to.
KEK stands as an exceptional street food establishment that achieved Michelin Guide recognition in 2016 and has maintained this esteemed status. This eatery celebrates Singapore's zi-char tradition. Every dish, including the renowned Chilli Crab, famously featured on Netflix's "Street Food," exhibits the rich cultural and geographical heritage rooted in Singaporean cuisine.
To introduce Mumbai to the renowned seafood restaurant, Keng Eng Kee (KEK) from Singapore, brought Singapore's Zi-Char cuisine to Magazine St Kitchen on September 22nd-23rd, 2023. The collaboration aimed to provide not only a culinary experience but also an opportunity for meaningful exchange, connection, and an enjoyable dining experience.