Noolputt

N oolputt, Noolputtu or Idiyappam are essentially string hoppers, akin to sevaiyan, made of rice flour dough, a common breakfast item in Kerala. It can be served with curry or stew. Alternatively, if one wishes to go the sweet route, sprinkle some sugar on top and serve with coconut milk sweetened with jaggery. To make it, one needs rice flour, hot water to knead the dough, salt, fresh grated coconut (optional), and water for steaming.

The name Noolputt or Noolputtu is derived from the Tamil and Malayalam word ‘nool’ meaning string or thread. And Idiyappam comes from the Tamil words ‘idi’ meaning to beat and ‘appam’ meaning pancake, essentially relating to a different version of the appam.

Idiyappam was, according to food historian KT Achaya, around in the ancient Tamil country in the 1st century AD, based on references in Sangam literature. The 1025 CE Kannada cookbook also mentions the dish, referencing the mold used to make the strings.

As trade and commerce grew, the dish spread throughout South Asia, with cooks attaching local methods of cooking and tastes to it. In Malaysia, for instance, steamed rice noodles are called Putu Mayam, often infused with pandanus leaves with imparts a green colour to the rice mix, and is served with coconut and palm sugar, called Gula Melaka. Penang has it's own version of the dish, which uses mustard seeds, giving it a brownish hue. Indonesia has Putu Mayang, where tapioca flour and coconut milk are often added to the rice flour mixture. Sri Lanka calls it String Hoppers and serves it with Kiri Hodi (coconut sauce) or coconut sambol.