Churmur

An aesthetic descendent of the famed Phuchkas (a roadside snack that consists of a puffed crisp stuffed with potato, chillies, and ground spices, all dunked in a tamarind and mint water mix) of West Bengal, the Churmur is all things good in a plate. Etymologically, the name derives its roots from the local language and is an onomatopoeic wonder. As the name suggests, the dish is both crunchy and soft—a single bite and the mouth emanates the churrrmurr sound. While Phuchkas are a one-biter, Churmur is generally served in a bowl made from sal leaves and is of a much denser consistency.

The main ingredient for the dish is potato and boiled Matar Dal (pea lentils). The two are mixed with tamarind pulp, ground spices including cumin, coriander, chilli powder, and aamchur. It is then topped with a generous squeeze of lime and hand-crushed papris (flour crisps) or phuchkas and then mixed again. Some regions like to add chopped onions and coriander to the dish as a dressing, while some opt for the more prevalent bhujiya.

To know the origins of Churmur, it is essential to know how Phuchka came into existence. Legend has it that the popular Indian snack was born in the historical kingdom of Magadha (modern day Bihar). Of the 16 ‘Mahajanapadas’ or ‘Great Kingdoms’, Magadha was a crucial one, dating back to 600 BC. This princely state not only gave rise to the Phuchka but was also the seat of both the Maurya and Gupta empires.

The Phuchka in Magadha was slightly different from the form in which it is consumed today. Termed ‘Phulki’ (referring to something puffed up), these small ball-like crispies were much smaller in size as compared to the Phuchka. The inner contents of the dish is still unknown, though many presume it was a potato preparation of some kind.

Interestingly, the Indian epic Mahabharat has a mention of Phuchka. Draupadi was believed to have created the first Phuchka. On being sent to exile along with the Pandavas and their mother Kunti, Draupadi would often cook up intriguing culinary wonders. Once, Kunti asked her daughter-in-law to cook something to satisfy all five brothers but only provided Draupadi with left-over Aloo Sabzi (a potato dish) and a small amount of dough. This move was purposefully orchestrated to test Draupadi’s skills in the kitchen. It is then that the quick-witted princess came up with the concept of Phuchkas.