Phirni

A full course meal can never end without a satiating portion of a moreish and decadent dessert. Indian cuisine too remains incomplete without its quintessential ‘meetha’ (sweet) after every meal. When delving into the realms of the Indian sweetmeats, what is better than our cherished bonne bouche – the Phirni?

Traditionally served in chilled earthen bowls, Phirni can be compared to a little piece of heaven on earth. This classic dessert is however a combination of some very simple ingredients, cooked to perfection. For its preparation, coarse or broken rice is used, mixed with simmered condensed milk, sweetened with sugar and flavoured with rose, and kewra water. A pinch of saffron adds to its regal colour and the product is typically garnished with chopped dried fruits. The soft yet grainy texture and nutty-earthy flavour make it a cut above the rest.

Despite being one of the most fancied sweet dishes during Ramadan, only a handful of people know of its history. Phirni is believed to have originated in ancient Persia or the Middle East and was pioneered by the Mughals in India. Earlier known as the Sheer Birinj in Persia, a tale has it that it was first offered to Prophet Muhammad when he rose to the seventh tier of heaven to meet God. Emperor Humayun is often credited for introducing it to the sub-continent. Special chefs from Iran, Palestine and even Southern parts of India were hired to make it more interesting and palatable- subsequently giving rise to our modern day Phirni.

The Mughal fondness for this delicacy gave Phirni a place in the royal menu and made it a ceremonial must-have. While Akbar chose this sweet course to be a part of the post Iftar meal, Shah Jahan announced dozens of variations like the Kesar Phirni, Badami Phirni and the Gulkand Phirni to be included as mandatory part of the Eid celebrations. However, it was Emperor Muhammed Shah Rangeela who made this shahi treat accessible to the public to be enjoyed throughout the festivity.

Phirni has numerous famous variants that include the Indian Payasam or Kheer, Fereni in Iran, and Muhallabia in Egypt and Turkey. Around the 17th century, the Romans introduced it to Europeans as a cure for indigestion. In China, another variant gained popularity called ‘the eight-treasure rice pudding’ owing to the eight different kinds of honey-dressed exotic fruits used in it.