Kulfi

The Mughal rule has decidedly been instrumental in shaping the vast and diverse Indian cuisine as we know it. The subcontinent was a hotbed of culinary inventions in the 16th century, belting out one classic after the other.

Centuries later, Kulfi is one such invention that continues to assert its stronghold over the confection industry in not only India, but also in Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, Myanmar, Pakistan, Trinidad and the Middle East. The name of the dessert is derived from the Persian word for covered cup, 'qulfi'.

Often dubbed as India’s answer to ice cream, Kulfi is a velvety, creamy frozen dessert traditionally made with malai (heavy cream), saffron and pistachio. It is usually combined with Falooda—another element created in the then-contemporary Mughal India. These are sweet vermicelli noodles steeped in rose syrup and milk, and lend a bite and texture to the creamy Kulfi.

Kulfis are denser in texture as compared to ice creams, as they are made by stirring the flavoured milk until it condenses and is frozen. The density of Kulfi inhibits it from melting quickly and maintains a frozen state in a warmer climate for longer.

Another major distinction between Kulfi and ice cream has historically been their flavour profiles. Kulfis tend to use a lot of spices like star anise, cardamom, cinnamon and nutmeg in the flavouring of the milk, while ice creams tend to be sweeter in taste.

In his book, Sweet Invention: The History of Dessert, food writer Michael Krondy notes that the invention and use of saltpetre to refrigerate water and transport ice was key to Kulfi’s creation. As per Historian KT Acharya, milk and sugar were staple presences in Indian kitchens, and the making of Kulfi didn’t require any special devices. All one had to do, was flavour and condense milk and sugar, pour the thick liquid inside a matka (metal cup), and then freeze it inside an ice and salt bath. This method is still used to make Kulfi.

But this once-royal confection is now a crowd-pleasing street snack sold during the months of April to October.