Railway Mutton Curry

Ever since its introduction by the British in the colonial era, Indian Railways has relentlessly served as the lifeline of transportation in the country. Arguably the nation’s favourite mode of travelling, there used to be a time when the Indian Railways were known for the memorable travelogues and the unforgettable dishes served in its first and second-class compartments. The Railway Mutton Curry is one such gem from an epic era of cultural and culinary syncretism that shaped not only the way people travelled but also the dishes they nurtured for decades to come.

The Railway Mutton Curry is one of the many ways lamb gravies are cooked in the country and is essentially a mellowed-down version of Bengal’s spicy Kosha Mangsho or Mangsher Jhol to suit the not-so-tolerant British palate. This subtle variation, however, is no less aromatic and flavourful, cooked from a rich blend of both British spices like bay leaves, cloves, cardamom, cinnamon and peppercorn, and Indian condiments like cumin, turmeric, ginger, and garlic. An additional aspect of the dish is the inclusion of coconut milk to produce a sombre flavour balance, and tamarind or vinegar to enhance the sour notes and give the preparation a longer shelf life, making it ideal for arduous train journeys.

The Railway Mutton Curry dates to the period of rapid growth of the Indian Railways and the beginning of the railway canteen and pantry food being served to travellers in waiting lounges and compartments. The dish is believed to have been introduced to the common railway passengers in 1928 on board the Frontier Mail, known as the Golden Temple Mail post-Independence, that connected Bombay to Peshawar. Rice, Roti, and dinner rolls were common accompaniments on the railway.

Folklore has it that a British soldier travelling first class headed to the pantry for a midnight bite, enthralled by the enticing aroma weaving and wafting through the shaking corridors. The staff on board were having their dinner of Mangsher Jhol and promptly offered some to the visibly famished soldier. To suit the Englishman’s delicate taste, the pantry cooks added coconut milk, or curd as mentioned in other narratives, that reduced the pungency and delighted the soldier beyond words. On his next trip, the soldier could not recollect the dish's name and referred to it as the Railway Mutton Curry, lending the preparation a name and a cherished identity.