Junglee Maas

With the staggering number of complex, flavourful preparations coming out of their cuisine, it is impossible to ignore the contribution of Rajasthan to the Indian culinary landscape. From Dal Baati Churma to Laal Maas, the lavish Rajasthani delicacies are emblematic of its arid desert landscape.

The cream of Rajasthan’s royal treats, Jungli Maas is a goat meat dish that was born more out of necessity than of leisurely creativity, presumably during the reign of Maharaja of Salwar. The Rajputs were a warrior clan and often engaged in hunting as a sport. The hunt they’d make on the day would be either taken back to the palace for a royal feast or would be cooked in the forests itself.

These meat delicacies would be prepared then by a select group of chefs accompanying the Maharaja in his royal entourage. They had limited resources because heavy carriage would slow them down. With only a few ingredients like chilli, salt and pepper, the challenge was to dole out delicious feasts fit for the king. And the chefs seamlessly delivered their tasks.

Jungli Maas is a lighter, less spicy version of Laas Maas in which succulent meat pieces are anointed in only Ghee, salt, pepper and red chillies. Unlike Laal Maas, where an array of spices are infused into the meat to mask its strong, meaty odour, Jungli Maas highlights the flavour of the meat by tenderising it in generous amounts of Ghee and salt. After slow-cooking the meat in butter, it is browned in a pan over high heat with a handful of red chillies, pepper and ghee. The hunters favoured a dry version of this dish, without its salan (gravy), since drier meat preparations were more convenient to eat while on the move.

The legacy of Jungli Maas continues today, although the dish is often made with gravy and eaten with a side of flatbread. Some modern recipes add a few garlic cloves in the simmering oil to conceal the pungent meat smell.