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Flower Power

In the run-up to Dussehra, the state of Telangana and some parts of Andhra Pradesh gear up for what is probably the biggest festival in the region: Bathukamma. 

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Bathukamma is a flower festival that has its origins in the villages of present-day Telangana. It is celebrated over the nine days of Navratri, and only women participate in the festivities. On each day of Bathukamma, girls and women decorate a brass plate with different coloured flowers that are piled up in tapering, circular layers, crowned with a cone of turmeric at the apex. The flower arrangements (also called ‘bathukamma’) are meant to represent the gopuram of a temple.

 

On each day of the festival, the women dress up in their traditional finery, carry the bathukammas to a congregation point, sing and dance, and then immerse the flowers in water to mark the culmination of the celebrations.

 

While these floral arrangements are the most striking feature of Bathukamma (after all, the festival is named for them), there is a lot of emphasis on food as well, especially that which is made as an offering for the Goddess Gowri (‘palaharam’). It is said that Bathukamma evolved as a folk festival in ancient times, as a way for women to not only have a safe space for gathering and sharing their joys and tribulations, but also to thank the heavens for the natural bounty received in that year. It isn’t surprising then, that the foods offered during the festive days also mirror this concept of abundance and fertility. 

 

Here’s the order in which the palaharam is prepared over the nine days:

 

Day 1 — Til and rice flour with ‘nookalu’ (coarsely ground wet rice)
Day 2 — Boiled lentils with jaggery and ‘atkulu’ (flattened parboiled rice)
Day 3 — Softened boiled lentils combined with milk and jaggery
Day 4 — Milk and jaggery with ‘nananesina biyyam’ (wet rice)
Day 5 — Uppudu Pindi Atlu (wheatlets pancakes/dosas)
Day 6 — No palaharam
Day 7 — Deep-fried rice flour dumplings, shaped like Neem fruit
Day 8 — Sesame with ghee and jaggery
Day 9 — Five types of cooked rice dishes (curd, tamarind, lemon, coconut and sesame)

 

A Bathukamma specialty is ‘malida muddalu’, a laddoo-like dish that is made with sajja pindi (finger millet flour).

 

For food stories, recipes and meal plans visit the Slurrp website or download the app. Click here for a guide to Navratri feasting (and fasting).

KADHI SE KADHI SAZAA

Instant Vrat Kadhi

By Ritisha Garg

Serves 2. Total time: 30 mins.

Ingredients

250 gm singhade ka atta (water chestnut/water caltrops flour)
1.5 tbsp sendha namak
Half tbsp black pepper
1 tbsp cumin seeds
1 tbsp ghee
2-3 green chillies
Oil for frying 
50 ml curd

Method

STEP 01

In a bowl, take about 150 gm of the singhada flour, add salt and green chillies, plus half a tablespoon of black pepper. Mix well with water to form a batter for pakoras. Heat oil in a wok and drop in small measures of the batter. Let it fry until the pakoras are brown and crispy.

STEP 02

In another bowl, mix the remaining flour with curd. Add black pepper and salt as per taste. Whisk well.

STEP 03

In a seasoning spoon, heat ghee and drop the cumin seeds in. Once they crackle, add finely chopped green chilli as well. Temper the kadhi with this and add the fried pakoras. Let the kadhi simmer for 10-15 mins. Serve hot.

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