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As the coastal states of Southern India, like Kerela and Tamil Nadu, get ready to celebrate the Malayali New Year, families come together to prepare traditional dishes for Vishu Sadya. Falling on the 14th of April, Vishu opens the door for new openings and is thus celebrated with great fervour and age-old family customs.
While many are familiar with the popular dishes served during this time, there are lesser-known food customs that add depth and richness to the celebration. To dive deeper into the long-lost recipes, food memories and traditions, Slurrp interviewed chefs who grew up in Southern parts of India. Why don’t you read some heart-warming stories and try some of the chefs’ favourite Vishu recipes?
Food Memories And Childhood Traditions
Waking up early in the morning and preparing the elaborate festive spread known as Vishu Sadya, the grand culinary setup, is what makes the Malayali New Year. Traditionally served on a banana leaf, each dish prepared for the Sadya is arranged in a specific order to create a visual appeal. To know more about the household rituals and foodie memories, Slurrp talked to Chef Jijomon C Joy, Commi 1 at Conrad Bengaluru.
Speaking about the nostalgic experiences, the chef shares, “I remember waking up early with an excited heart, eager to witness the Vishu Kanni — the "first sight" of the Malayalam New Year. The Kanni symbolises a fresh start, filled with hope, happiness, and prosperity for the year ahead. Amma would guide us gently to the Kanni — not allowing us to open our eyes until we saw the flicker of the lamp and the golden Kannikonna flower, which signified the beginning of the Malayalam New Year and the harvest season. And, of course, the Vishu Sadhya. It's a tradition shared with Onam, and the feast is an expression of gratitude and togetherness, showcasing the rich flavours of our heritage.
Adding to it, Ganesh Patil, Executive Sous Chef at The Westin, Goa, reminisces, “One dish that holds a special place in my heart is Koon Thoran—a humble stir-fry made with wild mushrooms, coconut, and a simple tempering of curry leaves and mustard seeds. It’s not something you’ll easily find on restaurant menus, but it’s deeply rooted in the forests and kitchens of Kerala. I first had it during a Vishu celebration in Wayanad. I was visiting a friend’s ancestral home, nestled between coffee estates and spice plantations. Their grandmother had spent the morning gathering wild mushrooms after a night of light rain. She cooked them with freshly grated coconut and green chillies—no overpowering spices, just the aroma of earth, wood smoke, and love. “
Focusing on the simplicity of the dish, the chef further says, “What struck me wasn’t just the flavour, though that alone was unforgettable—it was the sense of place. Sitting on the cool red oxide floor, eating off a banana leaf, I felt something shift in me. As a chef, I’m used to chasing big flavours and bold techniques, but that day I realised how powerful simplicity can be when it’s grounded in tradition and love.”
Long-Lost Family Recipes For Vishu
Traditionally prepared dishes like Parippu Curry, Avail, Thoran, Vishu Kanji, Payasam, etc, are an essential part of the Vishu Sadya. If you have been whipping up the same dishes every year, why don’t you try some of the lesser-known dishes? Sharing a long-lost recipe, Chef Bala At South Of Vindhyas, The Orchid Hotel describes Ulli Theeyal, which is a dish that stands out with its unique taste and rich, layered flavours. Elaborating on the dish, the chef says, “This traditional Kerala delicacy combines the sweet and tangy essence of khata meetha with the deep, aromatic notes of freshly ground spices. Made with small pearl onions, roasted coconut, and a carefully blended masala, Ulli Theeyal has been a great addition to our family spread for ages. The aroma of roasted coconut and spices, paired with the sweetness of shallots, takes us back to those cherished moments of togetherness and warmth. ”
Describing another hidden gem, Chef Balaji Srinivasan, Executive Chef Taj Cidade de Goa, Heritage shares, “I’d say Veppam Poo Rasam (neem flower rasam) really stands out as it carries a deep symbolic weight. Perhaps purposefully included in the Vishu meal by the wise ancestors to remind us that life is a blend of sweet, sour, spicy, and bitter moments. Much like how this rasam, when paired with rice, balances bitterness with tangy tamarind and the warmth of spices, symbolising resilience and acceptance. The act of choosing to taste something bitter during a festival of abundance is, in itself, pretty profound. It reminds people to embrace the whole of life — not just the sweetness.
Talking about his family recipe that Chef Jijomon C Joy, Commi 1 at Conrad Bengaluru, still enjoys, he describes Mampazha Pulissery. “I vividly remember the mornings after the Vishu Kanni, when Amma would be busy in the kitchen preparing the Vishu Sadhya. I would eagerly watch her take out the mangoes for the Mampazha Pulissery, and my mouth would water, hoping to get a taste. But Amma, ever the protector of her ingredients, would always say, “No, no, these mangoes are for the Mampazha Pulissery,” and wouldn’t give me any. However, after a few moments, she’d come out with a smile, handing me 4 or 5 of the sweet, ripe Moovandan Mangoes to eat. There’s something about the sweetness of those mangoes and the love of a mother that makes the experience even more special,” he shares fondly.
Further elaborating on preparing the coconut chutney and the rituals that followed after everyone sat to eat the Sadya, Chef Jijomon C Joy adds, “I also remember the rhythmic sound of the Ammikallu (stone grinder) against the stones as she ground the coconut mixture for the curry. That sound, paired with the aroma of the kitchen, is a memory that still lingers. When we finally sat down for the Sadhya, squeezing the mangoes into the rice was a mandatory ritual. It wasn’t just about the food — it was about family and warmth. For us, this curry isn’t just a dish but a symbol of the festival itself. It’s a memory that lives not in photos but in the flavours that continue to bring us back to those cherished moments.”
