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KoNot even in his wildest dream, Chef Vijay Kumar thought his name would ring out on one of the biggest culinary platforms in the world. But it did. This year, the 41-year-old chef from a small town in Tamil Nadu beamed with pride as he was conferred 'Best Chef: New York State' at the James Beard Awards—referred to as the Oscars of the culinary world. His journey isn’t just about fame; it’s about roots, resilience, and the kind of cooking that carries stories. At Semma, his now-famous restaurant in New York, Vijay Kumar is not only providing food but a bit of his home-style cooking.
Also read: 7 South Indian Dishes Named After Their Place of Origin
Chef's Story
Vijay Kumar’s win is monumental for many reasons. He is the only Indian chef in New York currently helming a Michelin-starred Indian restaurant. And this James Beard recognition comes in the very year he was first nominated—marking a rare and emotional milestone for the self-made chef who never set out to wear a toque in the first place.
Brought up in Natham, a small town in Tamil Nadu's Dindigul district, Kumar had one time fancied becoming an engineer. But money constraints pushed him towards catering college. Having completed a hotel management course from Trichy, he worked at Taj Hotel in Chennai, worked his way to cruise liners, and finally found himself at restaurants in the US such as Dosa and Rasa in California. His travels led him to New York, where he launched Semma in 2021 under the Unapologetic Foods banner.
At Semma, he serves up deeply personal dishes that are scarce outside South Indian households—snail curries, hot prawn thokku, millet-based khichdi—all steeped in recollections of his childhood, his grandmother's kitchen, and the untamed joy of village life.
What Are the James Beard Awards?
The James Beard Awards are among the most respected and sought-after accolades in the American food industry. They honour excellence in chefs, restaurants, food journalism, and broader food system contributions. Winning a James Beard Award is not just a recognition of talent, but of impact—and this year, Vijay Kumar was not just nominated but emerged victorious in his very first shot at the title.
To put it into perspective, these awards are to the Oscars what the Oscars are to movies. For an Indian chef presenting traditional village fare to an international audience to win here—it's a victory for South Indian cuisine in general.
Vijay's Cooking Lessons
Kumar attributes his mother and grandmother with showing him the essence of cooking. "They never cut corners," he's frequently reported saying. Their method—farm-fresh, seasonal, and full of patience—became his guiding light. Having grown up without a refrigerator, fresh ingredients weren't an option, but a way of living. From river-fishing to goat raising, and even going on hunting with his grandparents, food was integrated into the pace of country life.
These recollections now influence the food at Semma. The Nathai Pirattal (snails cooked with onion, tomato, tamarind) is an ode to wild food foraging. The Eral Thokku (prawns with green chilli and curry leaves) is a reminder of spicy home cooking. The Thinai Khichdi, prepared with foxtail millet, is a tribute to his grandmother's fields.
Even the bar menu goes South Indian, with cocktails such as Yajaman Sour and Thanga Magan Colada combining local spices and spirits in novel fashions. To Kumar, authenticity isn't nostalgia—it's preservation of traditions through innovation.
Vijay Kumar's victory is not a victory for him alone—it's a victory for all cooks who learned by observing their mother's hands, for all kids from small towns aspiring for something bigger. His James Beard Award is an ode to what happens when roots dig deep, and flavor is given the chance to speak for itself.
Vijay’s Words
As he posted on Instagram, in a New York kitchen far from Natham, "Never in my life did I think something like this could happen. that a kid from a small town in Tamil Nadu could one day be standing here, lifted up by his team."
And with that, Southern Indian food is unfiltered, unapologetic, and made with love, and has taken its rightful place on the world stage.
