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When one thinks about Bengali food, Macher Jhol, Kosha Mangsho, and Chingri Malai Curry are the first things that come to mind. However, this popular narrative barely scratches the surface of the rich and diverse food traditions of Bengal. On this Women's Day, we thought to present insights from Pritha Sen's exclusive conversation about Bengali food. Pritha is a chef and food historian, whose mission is to document and preserve the real Bengali food that exists outside of the popularized Calcutta-centric fare. Read on to explore the rich collection of Bengali flavors and beyond.
Sen emphasizes that what is widely recognized as Bengali food today largely reflects the cuisine of Calcutta, which evolved with rich ingredients and an urban, classist identity. This version of Bengali food, much like Delhi’s post-partition embrace of Dal Makhani and Butter Chicken, does not fully represent the true flavors of Bengal's traditional kitchens. The true character of Bengali cuisine lies deep within the rich Gangetic delta, providing a rich source of greens, vegetables, and a variety of flavors.
Bengal: The Green Bowl of the Subcontinent
Bengal, often referred to as the 'green bowl of the subcontinent,' is blessed with the fertile Gangetic delta. Pritha explains, “The Bengal region, even before it became the Bengal we know today, was known for its agricultural richness. The great Ayurvedic doctor Sushruta, in the 6th century BC, described it as the green bowl of the subcontinent.” The diverse geography, from Himalayan plains to mangrove-fringed coasts, supports an eco-diversity where over 100 kinds of edible greens are found to flourish. Such bounty influences traditional Bengali cuisine, which is often misunderstood as being predominantly about fish and meat.
In reality, a typical Bengali meal consists of several vegetable-centered courses before the inclusion of fish or meat. Fresh, seasonal ingredients are an integral part of the cuisine, mirroring the generosity of the fertile land. While going from the northern hills to the southern coast, every region of Bengal has something new to offer in the form of ingredients and taste. Sen highlights how a lot of Bengal's culinary tradition is the use of wild ingredients, as a way to appreciate nature's abundance and demonstrating the region's deep connection towards nature.
Practicing Course By Course Eating
One of the lesser-known aspects of Bengali cuisine is its structured, course-by-course approach to meals. Unlike the typical Indian thali where all dishes are served together, Bengalis prefer a sequential dining style, starting with something bitter (Tita) to stimulate the digestive juices. Sen explained, 'From Teetha to Mitha, our meals are a journey of flavors.' She adds, “A traditional meal starts with something bitter, often neem leaves or karela, to cleanse the palate and stimulate digestion. This is followed by greens, standalone vegetables, lentils with fritters, and then the fish and meat dishes. The meal is always concluded with a chutney as a palate cleanser and a dessert.” This organized method of consumption is not simply a matter of taste but follows Ayurvedic guidelines for maintaining the digestive process in balance.
Seasonal vegetables take center stage in most dishes, with dishes frequently changing with the seasons. Summer might introduce light curries with parwal and potatoes, while winter brings rich pairings with cauliflower and other seasonal vegetables. This considered progression of dishes provides a balanced and satisfying meal, with each course readying the palate for the next.
Zero Waste Cooking
Sen passionately spoke about Bengal’s zero-waste cooking philosophy, which has been part of its culinary tradition for centuries. She pointed out that Bengalis make use of every part of a vegetable or fish—whether it is the peels, leaves, or fish entrails. Dishes made from lauki skin, parwal peels, or fish head curries are not only delicious but also showcase a sustainable and mindful approach to cooking. An example of this sustainable approach is the use of edible flowers like sajjan ke phool (moringa flowers), bok phool(Heron bloom) and Kumdho phool(pumpkin flowers). These are not merely garnishes but are used in fritters and other preparations. This practice aligns with modern ideas of sustainability and holistic living, proving that Bengal was ahead of its time in promoting a no-waste culture.
She points out how this legacy of zero-waste indicates the holistic and eco-friendly way of living in Bengal. The cooking often involves creative applications of byproducts that are otherwise wasted. 'Chhyachra', a preparation of fish head with a mix of vegetables, and 'Mochar Ghonto', with banana flowers, are examples that demonstrate how the Bengali dishes utilize what is available from nature to the maximum.
Global Influences
The history of Bengal as a commercial and cultural center has made its food rich in global influences. The Portuguese, British, and French, and even groups such as the Armenians and Chinese, added to the Bengali food repertoire. This can be seen in dishes such as 'Prawn Malai Curry', reflecting Southeast Asian coconut curries and more.
Pritha mentions that Bengal was a precursor to the contemporary notion of global cuisine. Bengal's receptivity to combining new ingredients and techniques with old made its culinary identity something distinctively unique, combining authenticity with accommodation. Whether adopting the British innovation of baking or assimilating the Chinese contributions of soy and noodles, Bengali cuisine progressed but never gave up its original principles of fresh, local, and seasonal produce.
From Home Kitchens to Restaurant Tables
While traditional Bengali cuisine has its roots in home cooking, restaurant versions usually tell a different story. When asked about the journey of Bengali home-cooked meals to restaurant menus, Sen highlights a significant shift. Initially, eating out meant indulging in 'special' dishes that were too rich and heavy for everyday cooking. Restaurant food is normally richer, denser, and more elaborate, mirroring Calcutta's social gatherings, celebratory and festive cooking. “People wanted to eat food in restaurants that felt extravagant because they were paying for it,” she says. This led to commercial kitchens modifying recipes to suit bulk cooking and preservation requirements, and in the process, usually distorting the subtle flavor balance of dishes cooked at home.
Yet there is a change in the dining scene as more and more people yearn for the simplicity and warmth of home-style Bengali cuisine. Certain discerning chefs are now turning their attention to bringing back the original flavor of Bengali kitchens, presenting lighter, more subtle foods that are reminiscent of the homestyle, course-by-course dining, enjoying the seasonal bounty.
The Final Word
Pritha Sen's documentation of Bengali cuisine is not merely a matter of preserving recipes but of restoring a philosophy of eating that honors nature, health, and tradition. Her insights dispel the stereotypical image of Bengali cuisine and highlight the lesser- known traditions of Bengali cuisine that are characteristic of the region. As we celebrate Women's Day, it is fitting to honor Pritha Sen's mission which reminds us that the history of food is also the history of identity, community, and cultural continuity.
