Why An Odia Fought For Odisha Rasagola's GI Tag
Image Credit: Wikimedia Commons

Rasagola, the traditional Indian dessert served in mouth-watering sugar syrup, is typecast as one of the most popular Bengali sweets. But only a few know that the battle over its origins has deeper roots—and Odisha’s claim stretches all the way back to the 12th century. 

Born and brought up in Punjab, I was familiar with the Bengali rasgulla, which is filled with sugar syrup and is utterly spongy. Upon having a dinner conversation with my neighbour Mira, born and raised in Odisha, I learned that the Odisha rasagola is not chewy at all. Filled with pride, she told me a story about how her mother still makes rasagola at her home from scratch and how she, with her classmates in her graduation college, took part in rallies to get the Odia sweet a GI tag. Read on to learn more about her first-hand experience of getting worldwide recognition of Odisha’s rasagola.

Mira’s Childhood Memories Of Rasagola

The 26-year-old Mira relocated to Chandigarh, Punjab, for better career opportunities and is now pursuing her PhD from a reputed university. Speaking so fondly about the traditional way of making rasagola and how she was first introduced to the sweet, Mira reminisces, “I was born and raised in Dhenkanal, a small town in Odisha. Since childhood, I have seen my people make different kinds of sweets in their homes, restaurants, and shops. Even in my home, everyone from my grandmother to my aunt (badi maa) is very keen on making namkeen and sweets indoors as they’re more hygienic, and they love cooking.”

However, upon talking more about the first memory of rasagola, Mira fondly said that it was the first sweet ever. She further says, “Rasagola was given to her on her annaprashan ceremony.” Annaprashan ceremony is a Hindu ritual that marks a baby’s first solid meal, usually rice. The love of rasagola for Mira and her family is evident when she says that her dadi (paternal grandmother) gave it to her along with rice as her first solid meal.

The GI Tag Movement For Rasagola

Upon asking Mira about her initial reaction to West Bengal's appeal for a GI tag, she said, “Back in 2017, when we came to know about the appeal, we were devastated. I remember my mother telling me that Odias were so secure about the sweet that we didn’t feel like claiming it, but we had to get to the streets when we saw someone else taking the credit for a sweet that had been made in our households for centuries.”

Once West Bengal got its Banglar Rasagolla a GI tag in 2017, the people from Odisha, too, started their two-year-long fight to get Odisha Rasagola its much-deserved recognition. Describing the motivation behind participating in rallies and strikes, Mira explains, “I was in my second year of graduation, I was a member of the Student Activity Centre, and I became aware of the movement through them. Amongst the students who were more politically active, I took part in the strikes and rallies to get our staple sweet its much-deserved recognition. On a weekly basis, the groups of students used to get together for a hunger strike and movements with handmade placards and banners. This led to a state-wide awareness campaign, media attention, and finally mass recognition.”

Odisha Rasagola VS Bengali Rasogolla: Key Differences

After every trip to her hometown, Mira brings her mother’s home-cooked snacks and sweets like chakli, chhena poda, deep-fried matar, and, of course, rasagola. Upon taking the very first bite, I realised the difference in taste and texture between the chewy North Indian rasgulla that I had enjoyed growing up and the rasagola that’s made in Odisha homes.

Diving into the specifics, Mira elaborates, “I have devoured many Bengali versions of the sweet, and I have no issue to admit that they too are delicious. However, there are some key differences that set the two apart. One of the biggest distinguishing features between the two is colour variation. The authentic Odisha rasagola has both a white and a brownish colour, which comes from the addition of caramelised sugar. If the rasagola is made with jaggery, it will have a deeper brown colour. On the other hand, the Banglar rasogolla has a clear white colour. Also, Odisha rasagola is known for its melt-in-mouth texture. The rasogolla from Bengal has a chewy texture. As for the sweetness, the Bengali version is sweeter than Odisha’s rasagola.”

Since Mira, too, has tried the North Indian versions of rasgulla, she realised that it is a further adaptation of the Bengali rasagolla. Also, the cheesecake-like melt-in-mouth profile of Odisha’s rasagola is less prevalent than a denser sponge cake-like chewy texture of rasagolla in most Indian states.

Rasagola: An Essential Part Of Jagannath Temple’s Chhapan Bhog

The story of Odisha Rasagola is intertwined with the ritual of Niladri Bije, where the sweet is traditionally offered to Goddess Lakshmi to appease her when Lord Jagannath returns from the Ratha Yatra. This historical and religious context formed a cornerstone of Odisha's appeal, with advocates arguing that the sweet's origins date back to at least the 12th century—far earlier than Bengal's documented history with the sweet.

Having lived in Odisha, Mira says, “To date, every day, a thali with 56 bhog is prepared at the Jagannath Temple. To add something sweet to the thali, rasagola is prepared traditionally. Following the tradition, most Odia households indulge in the sweet after a festive meal or as bhog after a puja.”

From just discussing favourite desserts to learning about the authentic taste and recipe of rasagolla, metro cities are a testament to bringing different cultures together and spreading awareness. The best part is that this awareness hasn't diminished my appreciation for the Bengali rosogolla but has enriched my understanding of India's rather complex and rich culinary heritage.