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(Se)Same Pinch

In Nepal too, Sankranti is a time of hope, renewal — and feasting.

THE FESTIVAL OF Maghe Sankranti or Maghi is one of great significance for Nepali people. While there is a fair bit of folklore surrounding the festival and its celebration, there are two narratives that recur most frequently.  

 

One of these tales is of a Bhadgaun (present-day Bhaktapur) trader, who dealt in sesame seeds. The trader realised that his stock hadn't run low despite a period of very brisk business. With a sense of wonder, he went through the heap of sesame in his storehouse and discovered at the very bottom, an idol of Lord Vishnu. Vishnu is therefore known as "Til Madhav" here, and it is believed that worshipping the deity brings prosperity and abundance. 

 

The second bit of lore associated with the festival is that Bhishma Pitamaha's demise occurred on this day, and so, whosoever passes away on Sankranti will experience salvation, transcending the cycle of rebirth. 

 

There are several similarities in how Nepali people from different communities celebrate Sankranti, including performing ritual purification baths in the morning in holy water bodies, getting together with family and friends, and feasting on specific dishes. However, there are some aspects unique to each community as well.

 

For instance, the Tharu community considers Maghi their new year, and celebrations span several days, if not weeks. Alcohol is brewed at home for the festive spread, and pork, boar meat and poultry are arranged for the entire community. Participating in traditional songs, dances and customs are a chance for the people to come together and enliven their shared heritage.

 

On the other hand, the Newari people (of the Kathmandu Valley) refer to Sankranti as "Ghyo/Ghi'u Chaku Tarul" day or "Ghyo/Ghi'u Chaku Sanyu", after the food that is consumed on the festival. This includes yam/cassava (tarul; often prepared with a special spinach variety known as "patne palungo"), ghee (ghyo/ghi'u), chaku (a sweet made with concentrated sugarcane juice, jaggery, ghee and nuts), til ko laddu (sesame candy/brown sesame seed fudge), sweet potatoes etc. 

 

Chaku may be served with yam and ghee, or as a filling in yomari (steamed rice flour dumplings). In its syrupy state as refined molasses, chaku is also mixed with sesame seeds (of any colour) to prepare "tilauri" or "kalo til ko laddoo". 

 

A festive staple that is found in Newari households on Sankranti day is samay baji. Samay baji is a thali laden with several standard items, including chataamari (rice crepe), beaten rice (baji or chiura), woh (fluffy pan-fried patties or pancakes, made of lentils; if the patty is deep fried, then it is known as "maas ko baara"), spiced and grilled buffalo meat (chhwela or choila), fried boiled egg (andar), fried black soybeans (bhatamaas), spicy potato salad (aalu-wala), finely cut ginger (palu), boiled beans mixed with spices (bodi ko achar), green leaves (saag), and ayla (an indigenous liquor). A hot-and-sour vegetable pickle (radish, carrot, onion, potatoes, peas, and a Nepali berry known as lapsi/aamli/Nepalese hog plum) finishes off the platter.

 

OTHER ITERATIONS


Sri Lanka — Thai Pongal

 

In Sri Lanka, the harvest festival is dedicated to the sun god, Suriyapakaran. The lore around the festival states that Shiva had asked Nandi, the bull, to convey to the people on earth that they must eat rice once a month and take an oil bath daily. A confused Nandi mixed up the instructions, causing people to eat daily and take an oil bath monthly. An annoyed Shiva punished Nandi by sending him to live on earth, to help people as they toiled in the paddy fields. 

 

To celebrate Thai Pongal, kolams are drawn before every house. Milk, rice, jaggery and sugarcane syrup are boiled together, and the pudding is offered to Suriyapakaran, then shared by the family. Later, the cattle that plough the fields are washed and On the second day, the oxen (Mattu) that assist the farmers in the rice fields are washed and bedecked with straw garlands.


Sindh (Pakistan) — Lal Loi, Tirmoori

 

In Pakistan's Sindh province, sesame seeds (til) are made into laddoo and chikki (laaee) and distributed among family members on the occasion of Tirmoori. A few pieces of radish (moori) may also be given to one's relatives. Tirmoori is sometimes referred to as Utraan, and is celebrated by flying kites.

 

Lal Loi, on the other hand, is observed in a similar fashion as Lohri in Punjab. Ber, carrots, sesame seeds and revdi (a crunchy candy made of sugar and sesame) are cast into the bonfire as sacred offerings. Prashad is shared in the form of borinda (akin to the tilgul laddoo).


Bangladesh — Shakrain

 

Shakrain marks the last day of the Bangla month of Poush. The festival has two main features in Bangladesh: pitha (pancakes/fritters) made with new rice, and the flying of kites. Dhaka comes alive with colour and festivity during Shakrain. 

 

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RECIPE OF THE DAY

Bhogichi Bhaji Ani Tilachi Bhakri

By Rupesh Khandekar, chef de cuisine, Hotel Sahara Star

Ingredients

For the Bhogichi Bhaji:
20 gm green chickpea
50 gm ber
5 small brinjals
50 gm carrot
20 gm sugarcane
80 gm broad beans
50 gm papdi
100 gm coriander leaves
5 green chillies
30 gm white sesame
30 gm peanuts
80 gm desiccated coconut
50 ml oil
10 gm ginger-garlic paste
2 onions
5 gm mustard seeds
5 gm cumin seeds
10 gm turmeric powder

 

For the Tilachi Bhakri:
450 gm bajra flour
50 gm sesame seeds
Salt, as per taste
Lukewarm water, for kneading

Method

STEP 01

For the Bhogichi Bhaji, first dice all the vegetables and set aside. Roast the sesame seeds in a pan with peanuts and the desiccated coconut until it turns a light brown. Cool and then grind to a dry paste. Also grind the coriander leaves and green chillies into a paste. 

STEP 02

Add oil to a hot pan, then temper mustard and cumin seeds. Add chopped onion, followed by the ginger-garlic paste. Sauté until the raw aroma fades. Add the vegetables, turmeric and salt, and cover the pan for 5 mins. Add the coriander-chilli paste and sauté for another 10 mins. Add the sesame paste and cook for 5 mins. Take off the heat and garnish with sesame seeds.

STEP 03

For the Tilachi Bhakri, sift the bajra flour and salt, then knead into a dough with the lukewarm water. Let the dough rest for 10 mins. Divide into palm-sized balls and roll into rotis. Prepare the roti on a tawa, after sprinkling some sesame seeds on the surface.

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